Phase Speed and Angle of Breaking Waves Measured with Video Techniques
The phase speed and incident angle of breaking surface gravity waves in the surf zone are measured using video processing techniques. The analysis of video data follows two lines. The...
Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...
A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Bedload Transport Measurement by Imaging of Tracers
A dyed-sand tracer technique is developed for investigation of bedload under laboratory oscillatory flows. Imaging of the tracer with high speed photography allows the creation of time...
Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Eustatic and Neotectonic Controls on Salt Marsh Sedimentation
This paper presents a revised conceptual model of the long-term evolution of back-barrier marshes on the macro-tidal north Norfolk coast and their adjustment to tidal levels. The present...
Computer Simulation Modeling of Ebb-Tidal Deltas
An ebb-tidal delta simulation model has been developed incorporating gross features of delta and channel morphologies which can be measured from vertical aerial photographs. Delta and...
Numerical Modelling of Lower Lias Rock Failures in the Coastal Cliffs of South Wales
A model has been developed to evaluate slope failure in the interbedded limestone and mudstone Lower Lias series which outcrop for some 30 km in coastal South Wales. Computer simulation...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Physical Modelling of Pocket Beaches
The design of artificial beach systems is dependent upon the modelling criteria and on the selection of the sand material to be used for nourishment. In order to obtain a stable beach...
Movable-Bed Model Study of Storm-Induced Beach Fill Erosion at Ocean City Maryland
Movable-bed physical model scaling guidance has recently been validated for the case of turbulent-dominated sediment transport, such as occurs in the surf zone. The tests successfully...
Numerical Simulation of Beach Profile Response to Hurricane Hugo
Beach and dune erosion caused by Hurricane Hugo at Myrtle and Debidue Beaches, South Carolina was simulated using an explicit finite-difference cross-shore sand transport numerical mode....
Comparison of Shoreline Change Obtained with Physical and Numerical Models
This paper describes a study performed to compare numerical simulations of shoreline response to coastal structures to the response measured in a large wave basin. Two cases are modeled...
Development of an Input Data Set for Shoreline Change Modeling
Procedures and analysis techniques for pre-processing physical data sets in preparation for performing a numerical shoreline change simulation study using the GENESIS model are presented....
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