Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size

by Diane P. Horn, Univ of London, London, United Kingdom,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Sediments

Abstract:

A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses, and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone.

Subject Headings: Breaking waves | Wave shoaling | Water waves | Wave velocity | Wave height | Wave attenuation | Computer models

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