Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones

by Randall A. Wise, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,
Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,
Andojo Wurjanto, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Sediments

Abstract:

A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical model with an initially plane beach test indicates that the model predicts the quantities related to the irregular free surface oscillations reasonably well. However, the computed depth-averaged velocities are found to be at best in qualitative agreement with the undertow and odd moments of the horizontal velocities measured at 5 cm above the bottom. The numerical model combined with the total load formula of Bailard (1982) predicts the measured order-of-magnitude offshore sediment transport rate but can not predict the net onshore sediment transport observed near the shoreline.

Subject Headings: Random waves | Sediment transport | Numerical models | Water waves | Water supply systems | Transport rates | Surf zones

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