Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles

by Ida Brøker Hedegaard, Danish Hydraulic Inst, Horsholm, Denmark,
Rolf Deigaard, Danish Hydraulic Inst, Horsholm, Denmark,
Jørgen Fredsøe, Danish Hydraulic Inst, Horsholm, Denmark,

Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Sediments


This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone, current profiles, sediment transport and the corresponding morphological evolution. A discussion is given of the sensitivity of the model to a number of parameters and phenomena: Wave transformation after breaking, currents driven by density differences on a sloping bed, onshore transport in the non-broken waves, irregularity of waves, tidal variation.

Subject Headings: Sediment transport | Ocean waves | Hydrologic models | Coastal environment | Breaking waves | Ocean currents | Density currents | Tides

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