Shoaling and Breaking of Random Wave Trains: Spectral Approaches
We describe recent efforts to develop a model to predict the evolution of the spectra of random ocean waves shoaling and breaking on a natural beach. A model based on the full Euler equations...
Wave Interaction with Fluid Mud in Rectangular Trench
Wave interaction with fluid mud in a rectangular trench is studied theoretically based on small-amplitude wave theory. The problem was formulated using the Voigt model for an viscoelastic...
Nonlinear Shoaling and Impact of Waves on Coastal Structures
A two-dimensional fully nonlinear potential flow model is used to calculate shoaling of solitary and enoidal waves over a sloping bottom and interaction with submerged or emerged coastal...
The Effect of Wave Grouping on the Characteristic Wave Height
Wave data from two field stations and from the laboratory tests have been analyzed. The groupiness factor is used to categorize the wave data for the discussion of the correlation between...
Intermittent Kinematics for Nonlinear Random Waves Near Ocean Surface
Taking into account the fluctuations of the free surface for points in the vicinity of the still water level, this study analytically calculates the first four moments of wave velocity...
Two Basic Concepts in Offshore Engineering
Two concepts are developed which lead to an improved understanding of the characteristics of the wave forces that act on deep-water, jacket-type offshore structures. The first concept...
Size, Temperature and Rate Effects on the Fracture Toughness of Saline Ice
This paper presents the results of an extensive experimental study performed with the aim of investigating the effects of temperature, size and loading rate on the fracture toughness of...
A Discussion of the Numerical Modeling of Sea Ice Ridging
Pressure ridging, is the failure mechanism of the Arctic pack ice in compression. The large-scale compressive strength of the ice pack is determined by the aggregate of ridge building...
Applying Lessons from Extreme Environments to Solve Problems on Earth and in Space
Extreme environments on Earth and in space test human abilities to adapt, survive and undertake difficult and often dangerous tasks. Hardships and challenges posed by such environments...
Field Verification of a Wave-Induced Current Model
A unique data set of nearshore waves and current measurements over a bar-trough bathymetry was collected during a field experiment at Duck, NC, in October 1990. These high-quality data...
A Coastal-Ocean Hindcast/Forecast Model
Flows in the coastal oceans are produced by interactions of different components: tides, winds, buoyancy discharge from estuaries, topography and remote forcing of deeper-ocean origin....
Experiments with a Terrain-Following Hydrodynamic Model for Cobscook Bay in the Gulf of Maine
A terrain-following (sigma-coordinate) hydrodynamic model with 10 vertical levels and horizontal resolution of 225 m on a 70?60 grid has been applied to Cobscook Bay, located in the eastern...
Modeling Nearshore Currents in the Vicinity of the Endicott Causeway, Alaska
The Endicott Causeway connects two oil production islands on the southern side of Stefansson Sound, about 5 km offshore of the Sagavanirktok River delta, to the mainland of the Alaskan...
Modeling Transport and Fate of Micropollutants in Coastal Waters
In order to assess rate and risk of pollution of coastal waters, attention should be given to the input of pollutants, the transport of pollutants, the transfer of pollution between water...
3-D Modelling of Heat Discharge from Ul-Jin Power Plant into Coastal Waters of Korea East Sea
This study focuses on the problems of simulating the coastal currents and their effect on the distribution of heated cooling water from the Ul-Jin power plant into coastal waters of Korea...
Estimation of Wind Fields for Coastal Modeling
Wind is an essential driving force for waves, circulation, and storm surge in coastal and estuarine areas. As with other horizontally 2-dimensional models, Corps of Engineers' (CE) numerical...
Hurricane Camille Shelf Wave Simulation Using a Numerical Ocean Circulation Model
The hurricane generated shelf waves for Hurricane Camille (1969) are studied using a three-dimensional, thermodynamical, primitive equation, ocean circulation model developed at Princeton...
Numerical Simulation of Tidal Flow in Shallow Water Bay by Finite Difference Method
A two-dimensional finite difference numerical model to solve the vertically integrated non-linear shallow water equations has been developed using an Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI)...
A Modified Adjoint Method for Inverse Eddy Viscosity Estimation for Use in Coastal Circulation Models
The adjoint method is used to develop an objective analysis technique for estimating the vertical eddy viscosity used in three dimensional oceanic models. A cost functional which consists...
Aldicarb Transport in the Coastal Plain of N. C.
The pesticide aldicarb is extremely soluble in water which causes it to be mobile in ground water. A field study was conducted to monitor the fate of the pesticide aldicarb in a poorly...
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