Shoaling and Breaking of Random Wave Trains: Spectral Approaches

by James T. Kirby, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,
James M. Kaihatu, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,
Hajime Mase, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,

Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Engineering Mechanics


We describe recent efforts to develop a model to predict the evolution of the spectra of random ocean waves shoaling and breaking on a natural beach. A model based on the full Euler equations truncated to second order in wave steepness is described, and its relation to previously developed models based on the Boussinesq approximation is outlined. Several simple models for breaking wave energy decay are described.

Subject Headings: Random waves | Ocean waves | Wave shoaling | Breaking waves | Wave spectrum | Water waves | Ocean engineering | Wave equations

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