Ocean Wave Propagation up a Narrow Channel
The results of a hydraulic model investigation of ocean wave propagation up a narrow channel are reported. Both monochromatic and random waves were used to study the wave characteristics...
Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....
Coastal Zone Management in a Changing Morphological Environment: A Case-Study from the Netherlands
Between 1971 and 1986 three major estuaries in the Dutch Delta area were closed as part of the Delta-project. On the ebb-tidal delta complex of these estuaries (the so-called 'Voordelta')...
Chemical Parameters Before a Red Tide Bloom, Gulf of Tehuantepec, Mexico
Gulf of Tehuantepec in the Mexican Pacific is characterized by 'north winds' (Tepehuanos) from October through March. These winds form a upwelling area in front...
Shell Island Evolution
In 1979, Shell Island was overtopped by Hurricane Bob breaching the barrier island with an opening that now has increased to a width of approximately 2.7 kilometers. Saltwater intrusion...
Pre-Operational Considerations for Marine Finfish Aquaculture: Site Selection and Allocation in British Columbia
Marine fish farming is a new component in the complex mixture of coastal resource uses in British Columbia. To ensure that the marine finfish aquaculture industry develops within an environmentally...
Available Data for Management of the Egyptian Red Sea Coastal Areas
An evaluation of the available data and the existing environmental conditions will help to assess the future potential impacts of oil fields operations, metalliferous muds, phosphate mining...
Numerical Simulation of Alabama's Weeks Bay Estuary
Weeks Bay system models describing water elevation, water circulation, salinity and BOD/DO concentrations are used to investigate two case study scenarios - a dredged ten foot deep boat...
A Portable Geographic Information System (GIS) for Coastal Mapping
The combined increases in portable computing power and storage with the availability of new software has enabled the development of a truly portable Geographic Information System (GIS)...
NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Region IX Near Coastal Waters Program
The Environmental Protection Agency's (EPA's) Near Coastal Water Program began in 1985 when former Administrator Lee Thomas requested the development of the Near...
Phased Engineering Development and Multiple Agency Review of Public Safety Issues
Several Santa Barbara County agencies have key engineering review responsibilities for new development. The magnitude of issues raised and the level of engineering review required for...
Basic Physical Models in Sediment Transport
Basic particle dynamics and cellular automata micromodels of clastic sediments are described and applications are illustrated in the areas of aeolian saltation, bedload transport, size...
Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...
Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport
A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive...
A Calibrated Longshore Transport Model for Richards Bay
In order to plan maintenance dredging at the Port of Richards Bay, different studies were carried out. These were to determine the extreme dredging rates required in the long term and...
Sand Movement by Wind?Optimising Predictive Power
The aim of the work reported here was to develop a model for the efficient utilisation of standard anemometer data for the prediction of potential sand movement. Accurate aeolian sand...
Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
G6 Coastal Morphodynamics
The contents and the backgrounds of the European coastal modelling programme 'G6 Coastal Morphodynamics', in the framework of the EC-sponsored Marine Science...
Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...
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