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Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport

by William R. Dally, Florida Inst of Technology, Melbourne, United States,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Sediments

Abstract:

A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive signals to create random waves, one test was run in short bursts (5 min each), whereas a second was run in long bursts (30 min each), both for a total duration of 180 min. Comparison shows that seiching induced during the long-burst test had a marked effect on the equilibrium profile and the shape of wave spectra, but little influence on wave statistics and the rate of profile evolution.

Subject Headings: Random waves | Long waves | Water waves | Physical models | Laboratory tests | Wave spectrum | Sediment transport

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