Field Measurements of the Vertical Structure of Suspended Sediment
The use of acoustic backscatter measurements to determine suspended sediment concentration gives a new view of the instantaneous sediment distribution as a function of height above the...
Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
Suspended Sediment Concentrations in a Barred Nearshore Zone
Field observations of the suspended sediment concentrations in the inner nearshore zone are made with the use of a pump-sampling system to derive time-averaged profiles and with the use...
The British Beach and Nearshore Dynamics (B-Band) Programme
A large scale collaborative field based research programme (B-BAND), aimed at measuring the small scale processes associated with nearshore dynamics on macro-tidal beaches, is currently...
Sediment Transport by Strong Wave-Plus-Current Flows
A prediction formula is derived for the suspended sediment transport rate in coastal regions when the current speed and/or wave orbital velocity is large. It is based on generalised forms...
Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...
A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...
Observation of Suspended Sediments in Mobile Bay, Alabama from Satellite
As part of a comprehensive geologic study of coastal Alabama and Mississippi, the U.S. Geological Survey is investigating coastal sediment transport in Mobile Bay and the adjacent shelf....
The Sedimentary Organisation and Behaviour of Drift-Aligned Gravel Barriers
Drift-aligned barriers formed of coarse clastic materials and described in terms of their organisational evolution at two levels, a) sorting and selection of clasts; b) development of...
Historical Morphologic Evolution and Sedimentation at Barataria Pass, Louisiana
Barataria Pass, Louisiana, one of the most commercially important tidal inlets in the Gulf of Mexico, has undergone several stages of development since 1840. The shore-parallel growth...
Processes of Sediment Transport and Ebb Tidal Delta Development at a Jettied Inlet
This paper deals with the development of the ebb tidal delta following the extension of jetties at a tidal river entrance. The growth rate and morphological change are discussed using...
Numerical Modelling of Lower Lias Rock Failures in the Coastal Cliffs of South Wales
A model has been developed to evaluate slope failure in the interbedded limestone and mudstone Lower Lias series which outcrop for some 30 km in coastal South Wales. Computer simulation...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Initial Shoreline Response at the Presque Isle Erosion Control Project
Construction of the Presque Isle Shoreline Erosion Control Project in Lake Erie at Erie, PA began October 1989 and consists of fifty-eight offshore segmented breakwaters with beachfill....
Rehabilitation of the South Jetty-Ocean City, Maryland
The south jetty at Ocean City, Maryland was rebuilt in 1985 to reduce the frequent shoaling in Ocean City Inlet. The project consists of a new jetty offset 30 feet south of the existing...
Redington Shores Breakwater: Beach Response
This paper presents the beach response at Redington Shores, Florida to a detached offshore breakwater constructed in 1986. This paper summarizes the initial shoreline response described...
Comparison of Shoreline Change Obtained with Physical and Numerical Models
This paper describes a study performed to compare numerical simulations of shoreline response to coastal structures to the response measured in a large wave basin. Two cases are modeled...
Mathematical Model of Groyned Shingle Beaches
The paper describes the development of a mathematical model designed to be used by coastal engineers to study the effects of groynes on shingle beaches. The main task of the model is to...
The Interaction of Seawalls and Beaches: Four Years of Field Monitoring, Monterey Bay, California
Coastal protection structures have historically been the most common approach to dealing with the problem of shoreline erosion in the United States. Three potential impacts of these structures...
Wave-Induced Scour Prediction at Vertical Walls
Scour at the foot of a vertical wall is examined for the special case of normally-incident, nonbreaking irregular waves that are perfectly reflected by the wall. The bottom is initially...
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