Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...
A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Processes Controlling the Retreat of the Isles Dernieres, A Louisiana Barrier-Island Chain
The Isles Dernieres is a low-lying, transgressive barrier-island chain situated about 150 km west of the modern Mississippi delta. Much of the Isles Dernieres consists of highly dissected...
The Oceanside Experimental Sand Bypass?The Next Step
Following the completion and successful operation of the first phase of the Oceanside Sand Bypass, the next step in the development of the experiment has begun. The Phase I plant is not...
Sand Bypassing at Indian River Inlet, Delaware
To solve a beach erosion problem north of Indian River Inlet, Delaware, the US Army Corps of Engineers Philadelphia District and the State of Delaware have constructed a fixed plant sand...
Eustatic and Neotectonic Controls on Salt Marsh Sedimentation
This paper presents a revised conceptual model of the long-term evolution of back-barrier marshes on the macro-tidal north Norfolk coast and their adjustment to tidal levels. The present...
Preservation Potential of the Delaware Atlantic Coast Barrier?Backbarrier System
Volumes of Delaware Atlantic barrier and shoreface lithosomes were digitized to evaluate preservation potential during transgression. Erosion during headland retreat of less than 0.5 km...
Geomorphology and Sedimentation Patterns of Tidal Inlets: A Review
Tidal inlets are generally formed by either of two mechanisms: storm generated scour channels, and closure of estuarine entrances by growth of sand spits. On depositional, coastal plain...
Return to search