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Shore Protection Conflicting Objectives in Decision Making
Shore protection, in an era of rising sea levels and declining sediment budgets, is emerging as a priority item in coastal management. Yet to the traditional conflict between man and nature...

Ocean Wave Propagation up a Narrow Channel
The results of a hydraulic model investigation of ocean wave propagation up a narrow channel are reported. Both monochromatic and random waves were used to study the wave characteristics...

Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....

Chemical Parameters Before a Red Tide Bloom, Gulf of Tehuantepec, Mexico
Gulf of Tehuantepec in the Mexican Pacific is characterized by 'north winds' (Tepehuanos) from October through March. These winds form a upwelling area in front...

Pre-Operational Considerations for Marine Finfish Aquaculture: Site Selection and Allocation in British Columbia
Marine fish farming is a new component in the complex mixture of coastal resource uses in British Columbia. To ensure that the marine finfish aquaculture industry develops within an environmentally...

Numerical Simulation of Alabama's Weeks Bay Estuary
Weeks Bay system models describing water elevation, water circulation, salinity and BOD/DO concentrations are used to investigate two case study scenarios - a dredged ten foot deep boat...

Basic Physical Models in Sediment Transport
Basic particle dynamics and cellular automata micromodels of clastic sediments are described and applications are illustrated in the areas of aeolian saltation, bedload transport, size...

Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...

Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport
A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive...

A Calibrated Longshore Transport Model for Richards Bay
In order to plan maintenance dredging at the Port of Richards Bay, different studies were carried out. These were to determine the extreme dredging rates required in the long term and...

Sand Movement by Wind?Optimising Predictive Power
The aim of the work reported here was to develop a model for the efficient utilisation of standard anemometer data for the prediction of potential sand movement. Accurate aeolian sand...

Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...

G6 Coastal Morphodynamics
The contents and the backgrounds of the European coastal modelling programme 'G6 Coastal Morphodynamics', in the framework of the EC-sponsored Marine Science...

Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...

Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....

Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...

Estimation of Overwash Bore Velocities Using Video Techniques
Overwash data were collected at a site on the Isles Dernieres, LA barrier island chain during Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988. A video technique was applied that allowed the quantification...

Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...

Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...

Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...

 

 

 

 

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