Effect of the Earth Rotation on Tide Induced Sediment Transport
Semi-enclosed seas are generally composed of narrow straits and wide basins, forming a strait-basin system. In the strait-basin system where tidal current prevails, the strong tidal current...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Problems with Predicting the Transport of Pumiceous Sediments in the Coastal Environment
Pumice is often a major component of coastal sediments associated with subduction zone volcanic settings. Several recent studies in New Zealand have highlighted the difficulties of predicting...
Accuracy Standards and Development of a National Shoreline Change Data Base
Data associated with mapping shoreline position provides baseline information used by scientists, managers, and planners for quantitative assessment of historical trends and prediction...
Processes of Sediment Transport and Ebb Tidal Delta Development at a Jettied Inlet
This paper deals with the development of the ebb tidal delta following the extension of jetties at a tidal river entrance. The growth rate and morphological change are discussed using...
Thoughts on Large Scale Coastal Behavior
Large scale coastal behaviour (LSCB) deals with the development of coastal profiles and sediment budgets of a large coastal stretch (order tens of km's) over a considerable...
Mechanisms of Coastal Cliff Erosion in Ceredigion, West Wales, UK
Investigation of cliff recession along 20km of the West Wales coastline has recognised erosion processes and mechanisms. Mean contemporary recession rates of 13cm/year have been measured...
Seacliff Retreat and Coarse Sediment Yields in Southern California
Seacliffs are erosional slopes. They form when a receding shoreline impinges on coastal terraces, hills, or mountains. Wave-caused erosion at the base of a seacliff controls its long-term...
Numerical Modelling of Lower Lias Rock Failures in the Coastal Cliffs of South Wales
A model has been developed to evaluate slope failure in the interbedded limestone and mudstone Lower Lias series which outcrop for some 30 km in coastal South Wales. Computer simulation...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Post-
Hurricane Hugo caused unprecedented damage and extensive beach erosion in South Carolina on 22 September 1989. One week after Hugo, a plan was prepared to push up an emergency dune along...
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