Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Simulation of Bedload Transport of Marine Gravel
Using combined current meter and acoustic measurements, detailed concurrent time series of instantaneous bedload transport rates and flow turbulence have been obtained. The duration, interval...
Bedload Transport Measurement by Imaging of Tracers
A dyed-sand tracer technique is developed for investigation of bedload under laboratory oscillatory flows. Imaging of the tracer with high speed photography allows the creation of time...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Morphodynamics of the Isles Dernieres Barrier Shoreline, Louisiana: 1984?1989
An aerial videotape mapping system was used to monitor spatial and temporal variability of the coastal morphology along the Isles Dernieres barrier shoreline. Between 1984 and 1989, nine...
Eustatic and Neotectonic Controls on Salt Marsh Sedimentation
This paper presents a revised conceptual model of the long-term evolution of back-barrier marshes on the macro-tidal north Norfolk coast and their adjustment to tidal levels. The present...
Numerical Modelling of Lower Lias Rock Failures in the Coastal Cliffs of South Wales
A model has been developed to evaluate slope failure in the interbedded limestone and mudstone Lower Lias series which outcrop for some 30 km in coastal South Wales. Computer simulation...
Numerical Simulation of Beach Profile Response to Hurricane Hugo
Beach and dune erosion caused by Hurricane Hugo at Myrtle and Debidue Beaches, South Carolina was simulated using an explicit finite-difference cross-shore sand transport numerical mode....
Comparison of Shoreline Change Obtained with Physical and Numerical Models
This paper describes a study performed to compare numerical simulations of shoreline response to coastal structures to the response measured in a large wave basin. Two cases are modeled...
Field Application of a Numerical Model of Beach Topography Change
Discussion was made, on the basis of field data, on the applicability of the formula for local rate of sediment transport due to combined action of waves and currents presented by Watanabe...
Beach Profile Modelling: Flume Data Comparisons and Sensitivity Tests
Some results from a deterministic computational model of beach and nearshore profile development are presented in this paper. Comparisons are made with prototype-scale flume measurements...
Development of Optimum Beach Fill Design Cross-Section
Accurate beach profile surveys, wave information, and sediment data taken at Ocean City, Maryland provided an opportunity to evaluate four beach fill design alternatives using the beach...
Performance of a Beach Nourishment Project Based on Detailed Multi-Year Monitoring: Redington Beach, FL
A recent monitoring project of a beach nourishment project includes closely spaced profiles and sediment analysis which provides data on nourishment performance which can be used in management...
Controls on Sand Resources: Cape Canaveral Area, Florida
Analysis of Holocene stratigraphy and sediments of the continental shelf off Cape Canaveral Florida shows that three basic factors control the quality of sand resources. Antecedent topography...
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