Effect of the Earth Rotation on Tide Induced Sediment Transport
Semi-enclosed seas are generally composed of narrow straits and wide basins, forming a strait-basin system. In the strait-basin system where tidal current prevails, the strong tidal current...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
Observation of Suspended Sediments in Mobile Bay, Alabama from Satellite
As part of a comprehensive geologic study of coastal Alabama and Mississippi, the U.S. Geological Survey is investigating coastal sediment transport in Mobile Bay and the adjacent shelf....
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Problems with Predicting the Transport of Pumiceous Sediments in the Coastal Environment
Pumice is often a major component of coastal sediments associated with subduction zone volcanic settings. Several recent studies in New Zealand have highlighted the difficulties of predicting...
Mapping Barrier Island Changes in Louisiana: Techniques, Accuracy, and Results
Changes in shoreline position along Louisiana's rapidly changing barrier coastline were compiled using cartographic data sources and aerial photography from 1855 to 1989. An interactive...
Accuracy Standards and Development of a National Shoreline Change Data Base
Data associated with mapping shoreline position provides baseline information used by scientists, managers, and planners for quantitative assessment of historical trends and prediction...
Keys to High-Accuracy Mapping of Shoreline Changes
For many years it has been difficult to overlay maps and aerial photographs with different scales and publication dates using conventional techniques. Large processing errors also made...
The Stratigraphic Record of Oxygen Isotope Stage 5 on the Maryland Inner Shelf
Present knowledge of Holocene transgressive coastal/shelf systems, while extensive, cannot directly address the effects and consequences of an extended period of relatively high sea levels...
Processes of Sediment Transport and Ebb Tidal Delta Development at a Jettied Inlet
This paper deals with the development of the ebb tidal delta following the extension of jetties at a tidal river entrance. The growth rate and morphological change are discussed using...
Thoughts on Large Scale Coastal Behavior
Large scale coastal behaviour (LSCB) deals with the development of coastal profiles and sediment budgets of a large coastal stretch (order tens of km's) over a considerable...
Development of an Input Data Set for Shoreline Change Modeling
Procedures and analysis techniques for pre-processing physical data sets in preparation for performing a numerical shoreline change simulation study using the GENESIS model are presented....
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