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Second Order Directional Wave Kinematics in Shallow Water
A theory numerical procedure were developed earlier to represent a real sea by the sum of many linear and second order directional wave components. Earlier publications showed that including...

Evaluation of Depth-Limited Wave Breaking Criteria
Numerous criteria exists for predicting incipient wave breaking. These criteria were verified with a limited number of data sets or under limited number of data sets or under limited beach...

NDBC Wave Data?Current and Planned
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) of the National Weather Service (NWS), operates a large number of buoy and fixed-platform environmental data reporting stations in geographical areas...

Implementing a National Wave Monitoring Network?Some Lessons and Plans
Most environmental problems involve a chemical and/or biological component and a physical processes component. A holistic approach must consider both components and the way they interact....

The TMA Wave-Energy Constraint and Cohesive Shore-Profile Shapes
A relation by Andreanov between wave-energy loss and nearshore slope, when combined with the TMA wave-energy constraint, is shown to closely approximate the classical Bruun/Dean shape....

An Experimental and Analytical Study of the Shoreline Response to Non-Parallel Breakwaters in Oblique Waves
REsults of an experimental and analysis study single breakwaters on oblique waves are presented. Three orientations of the breakwaters are studied, those being parallel to the shoreline,...

Design of an In-Situ Directional Wave Gage for One Year Deployments
This paper describes the design and implementation of a new in-situ, directional wave gage that records hourly directional spectra continuously during a 13-month deployment period. If...

Design and Testing of the NDBC Wave Processing Module
The U.S National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has developed a new wave data acquisition and processing system, called the Wave Processing Module (WPM), using state-of-the-art technologies and...

A Comparison of Three Wave-Measuring Buoys
We compare the performance of three wave-measuring buoys: a Seatex Wavescan^TM, an Endeco/YSI Wavetrack^TM,...

A Sonobuoy-Sized Expendable Air-Deployable Directional Wave Sensor
Obtaining wave information from small expendable air-deployable buoys is important for numerous military operations, civilian applications, and research purposes. Such buoys may be deployed...

Buoy Directional Wave Measurements Using Magnetic Field Components
Directional wave data can be estimated using the heave, pitch and roll motion of a discus buoy, which are conventionally measured by a pitch-roll sensor. To reduce the size and cost, this...

Coastal Engineering Data Retrieval System (CEDRS)
The Coastal Engineering Data Retrieval System (CEDRS) is a menu driven microcomputer resident database which provides both hindcast and measured wind and wave data for use in the field...

Wave Attenuation at the Mobile Stable Berm
This paper describes work examining the ability of submerged berms to `filter' certain erosive wave energy while allowing accretionary type waves to pass unhindered. Analysis of wave data...

Low-frequency Fluctuations of Suspended Sand and Wave Groups in the Surf Zone
Field observations of the sand suspension near the bottom in surf zone are presented and discussed. Calculated spectra of suspended sand concentration and wave envelope was found to be...

Anomalous Dispersion Paradox in Shallow Water Gravity Waves Shoaling Over Slopping Bottom
Pecularities of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves are considered. The results of flume and field experiments focused on the measurements of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity...

On Hurricane-Generated Seas
Two different situations in the relationship between wind speed and sea severity during hurricanes (and tropical cyclones) are clarified from analysis of measured data obtained by NOAA...

A Method for Locating Spikes in a Measured Time Series
Raw directional wave sample time series are frequently contaminated with spikes from various sources. The standard procedure in correctly editing these time series includes locating and...

Estimation of Directional Spectra by ML/ME-Methods
The paper discusses the statistical Maximum Likelihood (ML) and Entropy (ME) methods for estimation of directional wave spectra. A combined ML/ME method is derived, and a reduced version...

Implementation and Validation of a Global Third-Generation Wave Model at Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center
The third-generation Wave Model (WAM) is currently being implemented at the U.S. Navy's Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center (FLENUMOCEANCEN) to replace the operational Global Spectral...

Predicting Wave Spectra With a Third Generation Spectral Wave Model
the ability of the third generation spectral wave model, 3GWAM, to simulate frequency and directional spectra during a northeast storm of October 1990 along the U.S. mid-Atlantic coast...

 

 

 

 

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