Anomalous Dispersion Paradox in Shallow Water Gravity Waves Shoaling Over Slopping Bottom

by S. Yu. Kuznetsov, Russian Acad of Sciences, Moscow, Russia,
N. S. Speransky, Russian Acad of Sciences, Moscow, Russia,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis

Abstract:

Pecularities of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves are considered. The results of flume and field experiments focused on the measurements of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves reliable established the existence of anomalous dispersion phenomenon when the symmetrical about the vertical direction form to the sow-tooth ones due to shoaling process and can be explained by not the faster movements of high frequency harmonics but the birth new ones with the phase ?/2 relative the primary wave harmonic.

Subject Headings: Gravity waves | Wave shoaling | Water waves | Wave spectrum | Wave measurement | Shallow water | Ocean waves

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