Suspended Sediment Concentrations in a Barred Nearshore Zone
Field observations of the suspended sediment concentrations in the inner nearshore zone are made with the use of a pump-sampling system to derive time-averaged profiles and with the use...
Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Processes Controlling the Retreat of the Isles Dernieres, A Louisiana Barrier-Island Chain
The Isles Dernieres is a low-lying, transgressive barrier-island chain situated about 150 km west of the modern Mississippi delta. Much of the Isles Dernieres consists of highly dissected...
The Oceanside Experimental Sand Bypass?The Next Step
Following the completion and successful operation of the first phase of the Oceanside Sand Bypass, the next step in the development of the experiment has begun. The Phase I plant is not...
Sand Bypassing at Indian River Inlet, Delaware
To solve a beach erosion problem north of Indian River Inlet, Delaware, the US Army Corps of Engineers Philadelphia District and the State of Delaware have constructed a fixed plant sand...
Preservation Potential of the Delaware Atlantic Coast Barrier?Backbarrier System
Volumes of Delaware Atlantic barrier and shoreface lithosomes were digitized to evaluate preservation potential during transgression. Erosion during headland retreat of less than 0.5 km...
Geomorphology and Sedimentation Patterns of Tidal Inlets: A Review
Tidal inlets are generally formed by either of two mechanisms: storm generated scour channels, and closure of estuarine entrances by growth of sand spits. On depositional, coastal plain...
Regional Beach Sand Volumes of the Pacific Northwest, USA
Eight small littoral cells ranging from 5-60 km in length have been surveyed by beach profiling and seismic refraction to establish active beach sand volumes in the Pacific Northwest region....
Large-Scale Coastal Evolution of Louisiana's Barrier Islands
The prediction of large-scale coastal change is an extremely important, but distant goal. Here we describe some of our initial efforts in this direction, using historical bathymetric information...
Processes of Shoreline Change Along the Nile Delta Coast of Egypt
A comprehensive program has been underway for more than a decade to collect nearshore data related to erosion problems experienced along the shoreline of the Nile Delta. The data include...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Physical Modelling of Pocket Beaches
The design of artificial beach systems is dependent upon the modelling criteria and on the selection of the sand material to be used for nourishment. In order to obtain a stable beach...
Movable-Bed Model Study of Storm-Induced Beach Fill Erosion at Ocean City Maryland
Movable-bed physical model scaling guidance has recently been validated for the case of turbulent-dominated sediment transport, such as occurs in the surf zone. The tests successfully...
Comparison of Shoreline Change Obtained with Physical and Numerical Models
This paper describes a study performed to compare numerical simulations of shoreline response to coastal structures to the response measured in a large wave basin. Two cases are modeled...
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