Wave Equation Modelling of the SPT
The stress wave propagation in the Standard Penetration Test (SPT) is described in this paper. It is shown that the SPT is a complex dynamic system and that both force and motion measurements...
Measurements of Nutrient and Metal Fluxes from the Sea Floor in the Area Around the Whites Point Sewage Outfall, Los Angeles, California
Studies are underway to determine the influence of sewage outfall-impacted sediment on the exchange of nutrients and trace metals in the coastal marine environment. Utilizing a benthic...
Model Comparisons of Harbor Wave Response
Physical and numerical model tests were conducted for an idealized, flat-bottom rectangular harbor, entrance channel, and nearshore bathymetry. Bathymetry of the entrance channel and offshore...
Experiments on Stratified Flows: A Comparison with Theory
Stratified flows caused by salt wedges in estuaries, fjord flows and power station cooling waters represent very complicated flow situations with regard to their stability and rates of...
Observations of Seasonal and Interseasonal Variability in Shelikof Strait, Alaska
Nearly five years of monthly mean current data from two locations (one nearshore on the shallow shelf and one in the Shelikof sea valley) are used in conjunction with surface geostrophic...
NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...
Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...
Infragravity Driven Suspended Sediment Transport in the Swash, Inner and Outer-Surf Zone
Nearbed suspended sediment concentration and velocity measurements from 3 field sites in the mid-outer surf zone (low energy), inner surf zone (high energy) and swash (high energy) are...
Critical Examination of Longshore Transport Rate Magnitude
Inconsistencies in the field data and predictions of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates associated with the CERC and Bagnold formulae are discussed. Practical errors in direct application...
Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Distribution
The initial analysis of a new set of experimental data on alongshore sediment transport rate distribution is presented. The distributions were generally found to be bimodal but tended...
Measurements of Suspended Sediment Transport: Prototype Shorefaces
Field measurements of local time-varying suspended sediment flux were obtained using rapid response velocity and sediment concentration sensors at a number of elevations under shoaling...
Field Measurements of the Vertical Structure of Suspended Sediment
The use of acoustic backscatter measurements to determine suspended sediment concentration gives a new view of the instantaneous sediment distribution as a function of height above the...
Monitoring the Response of the Inter-Tidal Beach Profile to Tidal and Wave Forcing
The need for sets of beach profile and wave data of one year duration, sampled at sub-weekly intervals, is well recognised in the literature. Some of the initial data from a macro-tidal...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
Phase Speed and Angle of Breaking Waves Measured with Video Techniques
The phase speed and incident angle of breaking surface gravity waves in the surf zone are measured using video processing techniques. The analysis of video data follows two lines. The...
Simulation of Bedload Transport of Marine Gravel
Using combined current meter and acoustic measurements, detailed concurrent time series of instantaneous bedload transport rates and flow turbulence have been obtained. The duration, interval...
Bedload Transport Measurement by Imaging of Tracers
A dyed-sand tracer technique is developed for investigation of bedload under laboratory oscillatory flows. Imaging of the tracer with high speed photography allows the creation of time...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
Computer Simulation Modeling of Ebb-Tidal Deltas
An ebb-tidal delta simulation model has been developed incorporating gross features of delta and channel morphologies which can be measured from vertical aerial photographs. Delta and...
Processes of Shoreline Change Along the Nile Delta Coast of Egypt
A comprehensive program has been underway for more than a decade to collect nearshore data related to erosion problems experienced along the shoreline of the Nile Delta. The data include...
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