Littoral Dune Transport and Morphology Under a Variable Wind Regime
Most of the large dunes are generally produced by a permanent or quasi-permanent winds. Usually winds present strong concentrations of its directional spectrum around its mean direction....
Field Measurements of the Vertical Structure of Suspended Sediment
The use of acoustic backscatter measurements to determine suspended sediment concentration gives a new view of the instantaneous sediment distribution as a function of height above the...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
The Sedimentary Organisation and Behaviour of Drift-Aligned Gravel Barriers
Drift-aligned barriers formed of coarse clastic materials and described in terms of their organisational evolution at two levels, a) sorting and selection of clasts; b) development of...
Mapping Barrier Island Changes in Louisiana: Techniques, Accuracy, and Results
Changes in shoreline position along Louisiana's rapidly changing barrier coastline were compiled using cartographic data sources and aerial photography from 1855 to 1989. An interactive...
Late Quaternary Geologic Framework, North-Central Gulf of Mexico
The geologic framework of the north-central Gulf of Mexico shelf is composed of multiple, stacked, delta systems. Shelf and nearshore sedimentary facies were deposited by deltaic progradation,...
Processes Controlling the Retreat of the Isles Dernieres, A Louisiana Barrier-Island Chain
The Isles Dernieres is a low-lying, transgressive barrier-island chain situated about 150 km west of the modern Mississippi delta. Much of the Isles Dernieres consists of highly dissected...
Sand Bypassing at Indian River Inlet, Delaware
To solve a beach erosion problem north of Indian River Inlet, Delaware, the US Army Corps of Engineers Philadelphia District and the State of Delaware have constructed a fixed plant sand...
Geomorphology and Sedimentation Patterns of Tidal Inlets: A Review
Tidal inlets are generally formed by either of two mechanisms: storm generated scour channels, and closure of estuarine entrances by growth of sand spits. On depositional, coastal plain...
Historical Morphologic Evolution and Sedimentation at Barataria Pass, Louisiana
Barataria Pass, Louisiana, one of the most commercially important tidal inlets in the Gulf of Mexico, has undergone several stages of development since 1840. The shore-parallel growth...
Processes of Sediment Transport and Ebb Tidal Delta Development at a Jettied Inlet
This paper deals with the development of the ebb tidal delta following the extension of jetties at a tidal river entrance. The growth rate and morphological change are discussed using...
Regional Beach Sand Volumes of the Pacific Northwest, USA
Eight small littoral cells ranging from 5-60 km in length have been surveyed by beach profiling and seismic refraction to establish active beach sand volumes in the Pacific Northwest region....
Numerical Modelling of Lower Lias Rock Failures in the Coastal Cliffs of South Wales
A model has been developed to evaluate slope failure in the interbedded limestone and mudstone Lower Lias series which outcrop for some 30 km in coastal South Wales. Computer simulation...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Physical Modelling of Pocket Beaches
The design of artificial beach systems is dependent upon the modelling criteria and on the selection of the sand material to be used for nourishment. In order to obtain a stable beach...
Spit Formation in Lake and Bay
A technique of superimposing beach profiles, as a method for analyzing the characteristics and deformation process of a sand spit topography, is proposed, and the morphological changes...
Post-
Hurricane Hugo caused unprecedented damage and extensive beach erosion in South Carolina on 22 September 1989. One week after Hugo, a plan was prepared to push up an emergency dune along...
Initial Shoreline Response at the Presque Isle Erosion Control Project
Construction of the Presque Isle Shoreline Erosion Control Project in Lake Erie at Erie, PA began October 1989 and consists of fifty-eight offshore segmented breakwaters with beachfill....
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