Waves and Currents Near the Kinburn Spit Extremity
A method of calculation of wave transformation and of currents generated by waves in a surf zone, including a spit extremity is offered. No additional hypothesis on radial stress and wave...
The Flows of Suspended Sandy Material Along the Section of Bulgarian Coast
Combining of available models of elementary hydro- and lithodynamic processes in a single calculation scheme permits to evaluate the volumes of detrital material transported either way...
A Comparative Study on the Hindcasted Wave Climates
For the various sites of Turkish Black Sea Coast wave prediction is carried out by the use of two different wind data sources obtained both from coastal meteorological stations and synoptic...
Wave Climate Studies Along the Turkish Coast of the Black Sea
Wind-generated waves produce the most powerful forces to which coastal structures are subjected. Therefore, wave information is required for the proper planning and reliable design of...
Wave Diffraction Patterns Behind Detached Breakwaters
This paper presents a theoretical model to examine the wave diffraction behind detached breakwaters subjected to regular oblique waves. The method of solution is an eigenfunction expansion...
A Mathematical Model for Predicting the Motion of Polluting Surface Plumes Due to Drift Currents
The paper analyzes the problem of displacement from the offshore to the nearshore of a polluting surface plume, subject to advection generated by wind-waves and wind-currents. After a...
Long Term Wave Statistics
Long term wave statistics are needed for many applications in coastal engineering and oceanography in the southern North Sea. Three sources of wave data are available: visual observations,...
Factors Responsible for Varying Granulometric Characteristics of Sediments from the Western Nigeria Coastline
The western Nigeria coastline stretches from Badagry in the west (Longitude 5?00'00E), covering a distance of about 275km. Two major geomorphic coastal units are recognized along this...
Development of the Long Caisson Type Vertical Breakwater
The width of the caisson of a breakwater is calculated based mainly on the wave force expected to act on the caisson. IN this calculation, the assumed wave force is the peak wave force...
Hydrologic Modelling of Extreme Flood on Small Mountainous Watersheds
Statistical and deterministic methods for extreme flood estimation were applied to Swiss alpine catchments to assess the application limits of each approach. Comparative results produced...
Friction Factors in Coastal Flooding
As the world's coastal zones are being developed and the coastal population increases, coastal flooding, or rather the prediction of its extent and frequency of occurrence, becomes a more...
Manning's n From Experiments with Rainfall-Runoff on Portland Cement Concrete Surfaces
Experiments were conducted under artificial rainfall on Portland cement concrete (PCC) surfaces with variable mean texture depths (MTD) and slopes (S). Rain rates were varied up to 3 in/hr...
Dune Profiles Before and After Storm Events in Coastal Massachusetts
It is well known that short-term changes in dune profiles can have a major effect on the severity of storm damage to coastal areas. In light of this, the standardized methodology developed...
A Model for Low-Drag Landslides
Field observations and experimental records indicate that the primary mode of motion of many large landslides is that of sliding rather than flowing. Most of the shear during sliding is...
Protecting the Boca Raton Outfall Before and After Hurricane Andrew
A critical factor for the success of an ocean outfall is its ability to remain intact and functional for many decades of service, despite extreme episodes of wave attack and beach erosion....
Mechanics of Riprap Movement in Tidal Flow
This analysis emphasizes the need to obtain data on the size and shape of riprap pieces as a function of movement, data which are surprisingly difficult to obtain from published studies....
A Model of Mixing in a Stratified Tidal Flow
We will describe a simple model of vertical mixing in a stratified tidal flow that might be observed in shallow estuary like San Francisco Bay. The model flow is driven by a specified...
Flow and Scour Near an Abutment
Laboratory experiments were used in conjunction with a two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical flow model, RBFVM-2D, to investigate the relationship between flow velocity distribution...
Density Currents in Pollutant Transport and Mixing
A buoyant spreading model for the current-advected plume is formulated including several distinct mechanisms: convective spreading, interfacial friction spreading, entrainment at the density...
Criticality of Density Intrusions
Previous analyses of density intrusions indicates that a steady interface cannot be maintained if the front propagates at a speed greater than that of long interfacial waves. Supercritical...
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