Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation

by Peter Howd, Oregon State Univ, Corvallis, United States,
Tony Bowen, Oregon State Univ, Corvallis, United States,
Rob Holman, Oregon State Univ, Corvallis, United States,
Joan Oltman-Shay, Oregon State Univ, Corvallis, United States,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Sediments

Abstract:

A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent on the modification by strong longshore currents of the apparent beach profile felt by edge waves. A simple formulation for this effective beach profile is presented. An initial test of the hypothesis that the true profile responds to the effective profile is accomplished using data collected at the DELILAH experiment. The results are encouraging.

Subject Headings: Water waves | Gravity waves | Shoals | Sand (hydraulic) | Ocean currents | Linear functions | Soil water

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