On the Transformation of Wave Spectra by Currents and Bathymetry

by Yung Y. Chao, Natl Meteorological Cent, Camp Spring, United States,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Mechanics Computing in 1990's and Beyond

Abstract:

Application of the conservation principle for action spectral density along rays, frequently described in literature, is not sufficient to specify the refracted wave spectrum. In order to determine the change of wave spectrum by current-depth refraction correctly, the effect of ray separation which causes convergence or divergence of wave energy must be included. This effect can be derived from the divergence of the velocity field in the conservation equation for action spectral energy density.

Subject Headings: Water waves | Wave spectrum | Wave velocity | Wave spectra | Wave refraction | Power spectral density | Bathymetry

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