An Energy Based Model for Coastal Bays and Lakes
The North American Great Lakes have numerous tributary bays and small lakes along their coastline that open directly to the Great Lakes through natural or engineered channels. As a consequence...
On the Generation of Infragravity Waves by Shoaling Multidirectional Waves
The generation of long period waves in shallow water by shoaling multidirectional waves is investigate using both numerical simulations and laboratory experiments. The numerical model...
Analysis of Prototype Long Period Waves for Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbor Resonance Studies
Long period wave data have been collected at an offshore wave gage and system harbor gages for over eight years in the Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbor region. These expansion of the harbors....
Instrumented Buoy Network Response to Ocean Swell
The National Data Buoy Center has an extensive network of more than 20 moored buoys along the west coast of North America And in the Eastern North Pacific Ocean. The network ranges from...
The Daytona Beach Large Wave Event of 3 July 1992
The fundamental mechanisms behind the anomalous large wave which struck Daytona Beach on 3 July 1992 are addressed. Although the wave was originally believed to have resulted from a submarine...
Nonlinearity in Wave Crest Statistics
The statistical properties of nonlinear wave crest amplitudes are discussed for a narrow-band random sea consistent with Stokes second-order wave theory. In particular, the probability...
Directional Wave Data ? Measurements and Modeling Coast of Florida Erosion and Storm Effects Study
The U.S. Army of Corps of Engineers, Jacksonville District, and the Florida Department of Enviromental Protection are co-sponsors of a study to evaluate the coastal processes along the...
Measured Total Wave Climate of a Small Craft Harbor
Measurements of waves in a small craft harbor were analyzed for the purpose of determining the existing wave climate energy levels causing the excessive agitation of moored small craft...
New Technology in Coastal Wave Monitoring
The Coastal Data Informational Program (CDIP) is an extensive network for monitoring waves along the Pacific coastlines of the US. The system has evolved substantially since its inception...
New Program for the Marine Observation and Prediction Center of the Central Weather Bureau
With the increase of economic activities on the oceans and seas, the observation of marine phenomena and forecast services become more and more significant. The Central Weather Bureau...
Conservation Properties of the Mild Slope and Boussinesq Equations
Common water wave evolution equations, such as the mild slope equation, parabolic approximations and Boussinesq equations, are approximate statements of conservation laws. A feasible measure...
Nonlinear Decomposition of a 2-D Wave Field
Based on an understanding of nonlinear wave interaction in dual component wave, a new numerical scheme allowing for hybrid wave-mode modeling has been developed. in the hybrid wave-mode...
Second Order Directional Wave Kinematics in Shallow Water
A theory numerical procedure were developed earlier to represent a real sea by the sum of many linear and second order directional wave components. Earlier publications showed that including...
Evaluation of Depth-Limited Wave Breaking Criteria
Numerous criteria exists for predicting incipient wave breaking. These criteria were verified with a limited number of data sets or under limited number of data sets or under limited beach...
NDBC Wave Data?Current and Planned
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) of the National Weather Service (NWS), operates a large number of buoy and fixed-platform environmental data reporting stations in geographical areas...
Implementing a National Wave Monitoring Network?Some Lessons and Plans
Most environmental problems involve a chemical and/or biological component and a physical processes component. A holistic approach must consider both components and the way they interact....
The TMA Wave-Energy Constraint and Cohesive Shore-Profile Shapes
A relation by Andreanov between wave-energy loss and nearshore slope, when combined with the TMA wave-energy constraint, is shown to closely approximate the classical Bruun/Dean shape....
An Experimental and Analytical Study of the Shoreline Response to Non-Parallel Breakwaters in Oblique Waves
REsults of an experimental and analysis study single breakwaters on oblique waves are presented. Three orientations of the breakwaters are studied, those being parallel to the shoreline,...
Design of an In-Situ Directional Wave Gage for One Year Deployments
This paper describes the design and implementation of a new in-situ, directional wave gage that records hourly directional spectra continuously during a 13-month deployment period. If...
Design and Testing of the NDBC Wave Processing Module
The U.S National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has developed a new wave data acquisition and processing system, called the Wave Processing Module (WPM), using state-of-the-art technologies and...
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