Spectral Boussinesq Modelling of Breaking Waves
Random waves passing over a shallow bar are considered, in particular the amplification of bound harmonics in shoaling water, their subsequent release in deepening water, and the role...
One- and Two-Dimensional Analysis of Flow in Hotophia Creek, MS
A numerical experiment on the influence of a sand bar encroachment on the stream flow pattern is reported. The results of a two-dimensional analysis were compared with results of an equivalent...
Sandbar Formation in Side-Diversion Channels
Prediction of sandbar formation in side-diversion channels is desirable in a wide range of river engineering problems. However, the mechanism by which they form is still not well understood...
Laboratory Experiment of Longshore Bars Produced by Breaker-Induced Vortex Action
The Response of a Barred Coast to a Sequence of Storms
Three-Dimensional Behaviour of a Multiple Bar System
The Role of Long Waves in Sand Bar Formation - a Model Exploration
Field Measurements in a Tidal River Estuary on the Cantabrian Coast, Spain
Assessment and Recommendations for the Enhancement of the Bardawil Lagoon Outlets
The Influence of Boundary Conditions on Beach Zonation
On Some Hydrodynamic Effects Found in Large Scale Experiments
Shoals System Capabilities for Hydrographic Surveying
Calculating Erosion Rates: Using Long-Term Data to Increase Data Confidence
Computer cartographic techniques were used to produce historical shoreline change maps for two study areas: (1) an eight kilometer section of Calvert County, Maryland; and (2) an eight...
The North Black Sea and the Sea of Azov Coasts Under a Possible Greenhouse-Induced Global Sea-Level Rise
The first attempt is presented to compile a map of coastal evolution of the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov under the possible accelerated greenhouse-induced sea-level rise by 1m (medium...
The Magdalen Islands, Gulf of Saint Lawrence
The Magdalen Islands constitute the largest barrier-island system in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. They represent 435 km of coasts at the 1:50 000 scale, two-thirds of which are sandy and...
Halloween Wave Transformation Near Virginia Coast
The Halloween Northeaster of October 29-31, 1991 generated a unique severe sea. The storm waves propagated through two wave stations which are 87 km apart. The wave spectra of the storm...
Using a Numerical Model to Evaluate Dredging Options
Santa Barbara Harbor Assessment of Shoaling Frequency
The City of Santa Barbara is addressing the recurring problem of shoaling of its harbor entrance channel. The City relies on income generated from harbor businesses that in turn require...
Effect of Jetty Configuration on Wave Conditions and Dredge Quantities at Green Harbor, MA
Shoaling and Breaking of Random Wave Trains: Spectral Approaches
We describe recent efforts to develop a model to predict the evolution of the spectra of random ocean waves shoaling and breaking on a natural beach. A model based on the full Euler equations...
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