New Technology in Coastal Wave Monitoring
The Coastal Data Informational Program (CDIP) is an extensive network for monitoring waves along the Pacific coastlines of the US. The system has evolved substantially since its inception...

New Program for the Marine Observation and Prediction Center of the Central Weather Bureau
With the increase of economic activities on the oceans and seas, the observation of marine phenomena and forecast services become more and more significant. The Central Weather Bureau...

Second Order Directional Wave Kinematics in Shallow Water
A theory numerical procedure were developed earlier to represent a real sea by the sum of many linear and second order directional wave components. Earlier publications showed that including...

NDBC Wave Data—Current and Planned
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) of the National Weather Service (NWS), operates a large number of buoy and fixed-platform environmental data reporting stations in geographical areas...

Implementing a National Wave Monitoring Network—Some Lessons and Plans
Most environmental problems involve a chemical and/or biological component and a physical processes component. A holistic approach must consider both components and the way they interact....

A Comparison of Three Wave-Measuring Buoys
We compare the performance of three wave-measuring buoys: a Seatex WavescanTM, an Endeco/YSI WavetrackTM,...

On Hurricane-Generated Seas
Two different situations in the relationship between wind speed and sea severity during hurricanes (and tropical cyclones) are clarified from analysis of measured data obtained by NOAA...

Wave Monitoring in The Southern California Bight
An overview of recent research by the Coastal Information Program (CDIP), aimed at effectively monitoring wave conditions in the Southern California Bight, is presented. The topographic...

A Comparison of Wave Statistics in Uni- and Multidirectional Shoaling Seas
the transformation of six unidirectional and multidirectional seas propagating over a 1:25 planar beach are examined in a series of laboratory experiments. In all cases, the mean wave...

Experimental Study of Monochromatic Wave-Ebb Current Interaction
Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 26-m by 36-m basin with a 1:30 plan beach to study the interaction of monochromatic waves and an ebb current in and near shallow entrance channel....

Wave Runup on and Wave Reflection from Coastal Structures
Wave runup and wave reflection are two of the most important, easily quantifiable variables that influence the design of coastal structures. Unfortunately there are very few comprehensive...

Propagation of Linear Gravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents
A detailed derivation of some kinematic and dynamic properties linear surface gravity waves-current interaction. The obtained expressions, which are exact within the framework of linear...

The Development of a Wave Data Analysis Standard for a National Wave Measurement Program
The Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) collects and analyzes wave data from around the U.S. coastline to contribute...

A Second-Generation Wave Model for Coastal Wave Prediction
A second-generation numerical wave model, WINDWAVE, has been developed for wave prediction in coastal regions. The modal is based on the numerical integration of the energy balance equation...

Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...

A Spectral Wave Model for the Coastal Zone
Spectral wave models that represent the evolution of the waves on a grid superior in several respects to conventional wave ray models. Spectral models on a grid have been developed for...

Shoaling of Wave Spectra in Front of Reflective Structures
Breakwater and jetty design depend in part on the incident significant wave height expected to reach the structure. This height is not always known and must be estimated from a deepwater...

The Time Dependent Ray Method for Calculation of Wave Transformation on Water of Varying Depth and Current
This focuses on an aspect of the numerical calculation of wave refraction using the ray tracing or the semi-Lagrangian approach. the conventional ray method for steady state depth and...

Modeling Bottom Friction in Wind-Wave Models
Effects of bottom friction in wind-wave models are investigated, with an emphasis on wave-induced bottom roughnesses (moveable-bed effects). A state-of-the-art bottom friction model is...

Kinematics of Wave Overtopping on Marine Structure
Kinematics of transient wave overtopping on coastal breakwaters has been studied both experimentally and numerically. For the laboratory experiments, solitary waves with moderate wave...

 

 

 

 

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