Anomalous Dispersion Paradox in Shallow Water Gravity Waves Shoaling Over Slopping Bottom
Pecularities of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity waves are considered. The results of flume and field experiments focused on the measurements of celerity spectra of shoaling gravity...

On Hurricane-Generated Seas
Two different situations in the relationship between wind speed and sea severity during hurricanes (and tropical cyclones) are clarified from analysis of measured data obtained by NOAA...

A Method for Locating Spikes in a Measured Time Series
Raw directional wave sample time series are frequently contaminated with spikes from various sources. The standard procedure in correctly editing these time series includes locating and...

Estimation of Directional Spectra by ML/ME-Methods
The paper discusses the statistical Maximum Likelihood (ML) and Entropy (ME) methods for estimation of directional wave spectra. A combined ML/ME method is derived, and a reduced version...

Evaluation of a Third-Generation Wave Model for the U.S. Atlantic Coast
Accurate description of surface wind fields in ocean spectral wave modelling is of critical importance to estimating storm - induced wave conditions along a coastal reach. A new approach...

Wave Monitoring in The Southern California Bight
An overview of recent research by the Coastal Information Program (CDIP), aimed at effectively monitoring wave conditions in the Southern California Bight, is presented. The topographic...

Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...

The Development of a Wave Data Analysis Standard for a National Wave Measurement Program
The Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) collects and analyzes wave data from around the U.S. coastline to contribute...

Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...

A New Correction Procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder Data
A new correction procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder (SBWR) wave height and spectral data is described. The method is based on a reassessment of the available frequency response measurements...

Kinematics of Wave Overtopping on Marine Structure
Kinematics of transient wave overtopping on coastal breakwaters has been studied both experimentally and numerically. For the laboratory experiments, solitary waves with moderate wave...

Optical Remote Sensing of Wave Surface Kinematics
The measurement of the directional properties of surface slopes, velocities and accelerations is difficult, even in the laboratory, under conditions of steep, random and short-crested...

Breaking Wave Measurement by a Void Fraction Technique
Breaking of steep surface gravity waves in seas under moderate to strong wind forcing always involves the entrainment of air into the water column below the air-sea interface. As such,...

Design Waves and Wave Spectra for Engineering Applications
Thirteen years of hourly wave data measured at two of the National Data Buoy Center's (NDBC) buoy stations, one located in the northeastern Pacific and the other located in the northwestern...

Wave Transformation and Load Reduction Using a Small Tandem Reef Breakwater – Physical Model Tests
The performance of several small reef breakwaters, and a tandem breakwater system (consisting of a reef breakwater positioned upwave from a surface-piercing main breakwater), are quantified...

Parameter Regionalization of a Daily Baseflow Runoff Model
Daily baseflow values are required to characterize the environmental measurements being carried out in several basins in the Province of Genova, northern Italy. The main purpose of these...

Effects of Lateral Heading Flow Steadiness on Lateral Spillage
Hourly inflow and spillage rates from three lateral canals in the Imperial Irrigation District in Southern California were measured for seven months and subsequently analyzed to identify...

Effects of Climate Change on Water Quality
This research explores the potential effects of climate change on the quality of waters in lakes. Temperature and dissolved oxygen were considered the primary water quality variables due...

Modeling Temperature Impacts on Salmon Survival
Among research goals at the University of California-Davis are the development and application of mathematical models to study water quality impacts on threatened and endangered species....

Object-oriented Model of Colorado River Salinity
A salt balance is incorporated into an object-oriented river-basin model and applied to the Colorado River. The model simulates seasonal variations in the basin's water balance and employs...

 

 

 

 

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