Review of Recent Coastal Research in the Soviet Union
Information about sediment suspension regularities, their distribution in the water column and ways of sediment transport is indispensible for the solution of ecological and sea culture...
Saline Intrusion in Marine Effluent Outfalls
The paper presents an experimental investigation of saline intrusion in long sea outfalls. This intrusion is caused by the influx of sea water that may occur during periods of low discharge,...
NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...
Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...
Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport
A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive...
Sediment Transport in the Swash Due to Obliquely Incident Wind-Waves Modulated by Infragravity Waves
Swash is described by obliquely incident wind-waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves of the inner surf zone are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber...
Infragravity Driven Suspended Sediment Transport in the Swash, Inner and Outer-Surf Zone
Nearbed suspended sediment concentration and velocity measurements from 3 field sites in the mid-outer surf zone (low energy), inner surf zone (high energy) and swash (high energy) are...
Effect of Long Waves to Local Sediment Transport Rate
When irregular waves travel to the shoreline, long wave component becomes important in the surf zone. In the surf zone, sands are transported by both wave motion and turbulence due to...
Critical Examination of Longshore Transport Rate Magnitude
Inconsistencies in the field data and predictions of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates associated with the CERC and Bagnold formulae are discussed. Practical errors in direct application...
Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Distribution
The initial analysis of a new set of experimental data on alongshore sediment transport rate distribution is presented. The distributions were generally found to be bimodal but tended...
Neashore Sediment Transport by Slush/Brash Ice in Southern Lake Michigan
Bands of mobile ice are common features in the Great Lakes nearshore zone during the winter months. Samples were collected during December, 1989 to determine the sediment content in the...
Measurements of Suspended Sediment Transport: Prototype Shorefaces
Field measurements of local time-varying suspended sediment flux were obtained using rapid response velocity and sediment concentration sensors at a number of elevations under shoaling...
Field Measurements of the Vertical Structure of Suspended Sediment
The use of acoustic backscatter measurements to determine suspended sediment concentration gives a new view of the instantaneous sediment distribution as a function of height above the...
Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
Monitoring the Response of the Inter-Tidal Beach Profile to Tidal and Wave Forcing
The need for sets of beach profile and wave data of one year duration, sampled at sub-weekly intervals, is well recognised in the literature. Some of the initial data from a macro-tidal...
Sediment Transport by Strong Wave-Plus-Current Flows
A prediction formula is derived for the suspended sediment transport rate in coastal regions when the current speed and/or wave orbital velocity is large. It is based on generalised forms...
Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...
Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
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