Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....
Nature-Assisted Dune Restoration
The concept of finding and placing compatible sand along the coastal shoreline for dune restoration is presented. Laboratory experimental result supporting this concept is reported. Field...
Ecological and Geomorphic Impact of the Destruction of a Coastal Sand Dune System in a Sand Spit
Two main effects of the destruction of the coastal dunes at the sand spit of Estero de Punta Banda, (B.C., Mexico) were studied comparing unaltered and altered adjacent zones, The amount...
A Comprehensive Project for the Venice Lagoon
The Venice Lagoon is undergoing a severe process of environmental decay, due to increasing pollution from urban, industrial and agricultural sources. A number of projects have been launched,...
Submarine Sand Ridges: Unique Marine Environment and Natural Resources
Submarine sand ridges are large scale depositional sandy bodies on the inner shallow water continental shelves, which are mostly distributed in the macro tide area where the mobile sandy...
Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Effect of Long Waves to Local Sediment Transport Rate
When irregular waves travel to the shoreline, long wave component becomes important in the surf zone. In the surf zone, sands are transported by both wave motion and turbulence due to...
Longshore Sand Transport Rate Distributions Measured in Lake Michigan
Cross-shore and vertical distributions of longshore sand transport in the nearshore zone were measured in a field data collection project conducted at Ludington, Michigan, on the east...
Shear Velocity and Eolian Sand Transport on a Barrier Island
Nearly 18 months of simultaneous measurements of atmospheric shear velocity, sand transport quantity, and beach erosion survey were made to investigate the rate of eolian sand transport...
Sand Movement by Wind?Optimising Predictive Power
The aim of the work reported here was to develop a model for the efficient utilisation of standard anemometer data for the prediction of potential sand movement. Accurate aeolian sand...
The Effect of Beach Vegetation on Aeolian Sand Transport
The effect of coastal vegetation on aeolian sand transport is examined through consideration of the governing aerodynamic processes. Local scale processes without the effect of ground...
Functioning of Multi-Row Sand Fences in Forming Foredunes
Foredunes on sandy beaches are best developed through use of a series of fences by which dune height and width can be controlled. In a previous paper, the authors examined the functioning...
Littoral Dune Transport and Morphology Under a Variable Wind Regime
Most of the large dunes are generally produced by a permanent or quasi-permanent winds. Usually winds present strong concentrations of its directional spectrum around its mean direction....
Suspended Sediment Concentrations in a Barred Nearshore Zone
Field observations of the suspended sediment concentrations in the inner nearshore zone are made with the use of a pump-sampling system to derive time-averaged profiles and with the use...
Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
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