Evidence for Eustatic Influence on Cenozoic Sedimentation of Coastal Washington and Oregon
Comparison of the absolute age boundaries of the West Coast biozonation with the Cenozoic global cycle chart indicates that 12 of the 15 zonal boundaries coincide with regressive sequence...
Growth of the Cockle
Along the Senegalese coasts, A. senilis, which recently disappeared from the Senegal estuary is still abundant southward from Dakar, in the estuarine and coastal lagoons where it is harvested...
Rip Currents: Human Impact and Forecastibility
Annually, a large number of people in the United States drown in the surf zone. This study determines the number of surf drownings each year, mainly in Dade and Broward counties of southeast...
NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...
An Overview of Chemical Contaminants Throughout the Coastal and Estuarine United States
Informed decisions on the use and management of the nation's resources requires convenient access to current and reliable information. Since 1984, the National Oceanic and...
An Outstanding Marine Area in the Saint Lawrence Estuary
On April 6, 1990, the federal and Quebec governments signed an historic agreement for the establishment of a marine park at the confluence of the Saguenay fjord and the Saint Lawrence...
Forcing Innovation in Air Pollution Control Technology from OCS Development
Air emissions from OCS development projects have been addressed in a three-staged process which involves: engineering to reduce the project's emissions as much as possible;...
Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...
Moving Muds in the Marine Environment
Fine sediments with cohesive properties abound in the marine environment. We review idealized relationships that are useful in understanding flow behavior of important components of marine...
Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport
A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive...
Sediment Transport in the Swash Due to Obliquely Incident Wind-Waves Modulated by Infragravity Waves
Swash is described by obliquely incident wind-waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves of the inner surf zone are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber...
Infragravity Driven Suspended Sediment Transport in the Swash, Inner and Outer-Surf Zone
Nearbed suspended sediment concentration and velocity measurements from 3 field sites in the mid-outer surf zone (low energy), inner surf zone (high energy) and swash (high energy) are...
Effect of Long Waves to Local Sediment Transport Rate
When irregular waves travel to the shoreline, long wave component becomes important in the surf zone. In the surf zone, sands are transported by both wave motion and turbulence due to...
Critical Examination of Longshore Transport Rate Magnitude
Inconsistencies in the field data and predictions of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates associated with the CERC and Bagnold formulae are discussed. Practical errors in direct application...
Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Distribution
The initial analysis of a new set of experimental data on alongshore sediment transport rate distribution is presented. The distributions were generally found to be bimodal but tended...
Neashore Sediment Transport by Slush/Brash Ice in Southern Lake Michigan
Bands of mobile ice are common features in the Great Lakes nearshore zone during the winter months. Samples were collected during December, 1989 to determine the sediment content in the...
Measurements of Suspended Sediment Transport: Prototype Shorefaces
Field measurements of local time-varying suspended sediment flux were obtained using rapid response velocity and sediment concentration sensors at a number of elevations under shoaling...
Field Measurements of the Vertical Structure of Suspended Sediment
The use of acoustic backscatter measurements to determine suspended sediment concentration gives a new view of the instantaneous sediment distribution as a function of height above the...
Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
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