Marsh Erosion by Wave Action
This paper summarizes an analysis of salt marsh shoreline erosion, wind velocities and wave energy in Corte Madera Bay during an abnormally calm period in 1989. Winds during the study...
Geomorphic Analysis for Enhancement and Restoration of the Tijuana Estuary, California
Geomorphic analysis and results of field investigations in the Tijuana Estuary, California, are used in developing the rationale for an enhancement and restoration design that increases...
Coastal Erosion Problems in Romania
The paper presents some geomorphological features and erosion problems of the Romanian coast. We also reveal wind and wave climates. General characteristics of the sediments on the entire...
The Coastline of Bangladesh?An Overview of Processes and Forms
The paper describes the coastline of Bangladesh the inlet system, geometry, hydro-geo-morphological characteristics and the processes with which it is formed. The coastline has been identified...
Nantucket Island's Shifting Shoals and Moving Shores: Near-shore Bathymetry Controls Beach Deposition and Erosion
Historical records and our observations show that the near-shore shoal complex of Pochick Rip and Old Man Shoal has slowly but continuously built to the north along Nantucket Island's...
Shoreline Response to Offshore Shoals and Storms, Low Beach, Nantucket, MA
Low Beach is located on the southeast side of Nantucket Island, which is approximately 20 miles offshore from the Cape Cod mainland. It is currently the site of a municipal wastewater...
Reactivation of the Oil and Hazardous Materials Simulated Environmental Test Tank (OHMSETT) Facility
The Oil and Hazardous Materials Simulated Environmental Test Tank (OHMSETT) was run by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) from 1974 to 1988. This open-air tank was used to test...
Detection of 2-D Nearshore Wave Patterns Using Linear Prediction and SAR Data
Extraction of wave parameters such as wavelength and direction on radar images is normaly done using fast Fourier transforms (FFT) on typical image size of 256 ? 256 which may not be appropriate...
Ocean Wave Propagation up a Narrow Channel
The results of a hydraulic model investigation of ocean wave propagation up a narrow channel are reported. Both monochromatic and random waves were used to study the wave characteristics...
Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....
Great Lakes Wave Runup Methodology Study
The Great Lakes region has 5,480 miles of U.S. lakeshore. Located along this shoreline are approximately 340 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study sites with the associated...
Field Experiment of a Wave Power Extracting Caisson Breakwater
The Ministry of Transport of Japan (MOT) is currently developing a fixed-OWC wave power converter called a wave power extracting caisson. This device can be used as caissons for composite-type...
Scour Around Cylindrical Piles Due to Wave Motion in the Surf-Zone
The paper discusses the results of experimental tests to study scouring phenomena around cylindrical piles during a sea storm with reference to the modelling of a beach profile in the...
Nature-Assisted Dune Restoration
The concept of finding and placing compatible sand along the coastal shoreline for dune restoration is presented. Laboratory experimental result supporting this concept is reported. Field...
Factors Influencing the Settlement of California Halibut
California halibut (Paralichthys californicus) is an important species to recreational and commercial fisheries of California. The species typically uses coastal bays and wetlands as nursery...
HF Radar Ocean Surface Mapping in Monterey Bay as a Prototype for California Coastal Environmental Monitoring and Governance
A network of coastal HF radars is being established to provide real-time coverage of ocean surface currents, onshore waves, and ultimately wind fields over Monterey Bay. Data products...
Review of Recent Coastal Research in the Soviet Union
Information about sediment suspension regularities, their distribution in the water column and ways of sediment transport is indispensible for the solution of ecological and sea culture...
Saline Intrusion in Marine Effluent Outfalls
The paper presents an experimental investigation of saline intrusion in long sea outfalls. This intrusion is caused by the influx of sea water that may occur during periods of low discharge,...
NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...
Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...
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