Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Gravel Spit Stabilized by Unusual(?) High-Energy Wave Climate in Bay Side, Tierra Del Fuego
A 17 km-long sand and gravel spit grew from the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego in the late Holocene, semi-enclosing a large and deep embayment. Strong westerly winds generate high-energy...
Observations of a Tidal Inlet on a Shingle Beach
An observation and measurement program was undertaken at Batiquitos Lagoon, San Diego County, California to better understand the paths and rates of shingle movement in the littoral zone....
Implications of Accelerated Sea-Level Rise on Louisiana Coastal Environments
Natural and human-induced processes have combined to produce high rates of relative sea-level rise and coastal land loss in Louisiana. This paper presents historical trends in sea-level...
Wave-Current Interaction at Wells Inlet, Maine
Wells Inlet is a jettied waterway along the southern coast of Maine. Since its initial structuring and dredging for harborage, the inlet has been plagued by severe shoaling. The jetties...
Infragravity Wave Motion in a Tidal Inlet
Infragravity waves (20
Erosion and Accretion Along the Arctic Coast of Alaska: The Influence of Ice and Climate
Coastline comparison on 1951 and 1981 charts to determine erosion and accretion showed that ocean-facing coastal bluffs were retreating while deltas were rapidly expanding. Where the coast...
Processes of Shoreline Change Along the Nile Delta Coast of Egypt
A comprehensive program has been underway for more than a decade to collect nearshore data related to erosion problems experienced along the shoreline of the Nile Delta. The data include...
Mechanisms of Coastal Cliff Erosion in Ceredigion, West Wales, UK
Investigation of cliff recession along 20km of the West Wales coastline has recognised erosion processes and mechanisms. Mean contemporary recession rates of 13cm/year have been measured...
Seacliff Retreat and Coarse Sediment Yields in Southern California
Seacliffs are erosional slopes. They form when a receding shoreline impinges on coastal terraces, hills, or mountains. Wave-caused erosion at the base of a seacliff controls its long-term...
Model Testing of Shore Protection Schemes at Surfside-Sunset Beach, CA
A 1:75-scale physical hydraulic model was used to investigate the design of proposed structural modifications at Surfside-Sunset Beach, California, with regard to beach erosion at the...
Numerical Simulation of Beach Profile Response to Hurricane Hugo
Beach and dune erosion caused by Hurricane Hugo at Myrtle and Debidue Beaches, South Carolina was simulated using an explicit finite-difference cross-shore sand transport numerical mode....
Redington Shores Breakwater: Beach Response
This paper presents the beach response at Redington Shores, Florida to a detached offshore breakwater constructed in 1986. This paper summarizes the initial shoreline response described...
Development of an Input Data Set for Shoreline Change Modeling
Procedures and analysis techniques for pre-processing physical data sets in preparation for performing a numerical shoreline change simulation study using the GENESIS model are presented....
Field Application of a Numerical Model of Beach Topography Change
Discussion was made, on the basis of field data, on the applicability of the formula for local rate of sediment transport due to combined action of waves and currents presented by Watanabe...
Beach Profile Modelling: Flume Data Comparisons and Sensitivity Tests
Some results from a deterministic computational model of beach and nearshore profile development are presented in this paper. Comparisons are made with prototype-scale flume measurements...
Mathematical Model of Groyned Shingle Beaches
The paper describes the development of a mathematical model designed to be used by coastal engineers to study the effects of groynes on shingle beaches. The main task of the model is to...
Wave-Induced Scour Prediction at Vertical Walls
Scour at the foot of a vertical wall is examined for the special case of normally-incident, nonbreaking irregular waves that are perfectly reflected by the wall. The bottom is initially...
The Use of Hydraulic and Mathematical Models for Designing a Small Artificial Beach
This paper presents a case study in which physical and mathematical models are used for determining the behavior of a small artificial beach under wave attack. The beach is protected by...
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