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Estimation of Overwash Bore Velocities Using Video Techniques
Overwash data were collected at a site on the Isles Dernieres, LA barrier island chain during Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988. A video technique was applied that allowed the quantification...

Process Variation Across a Barred, Tidal Nearshore
Detailed measurements of nearshore motions and morphologic change across the inner bar-trough of a barred, tidal beach were taken at Canaveral N.S., Florida. Tidal range was <1...

Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...

Phase Speed and Angle of Breaking Waves Measured with Video Techniques
The phase speed and incident angle of breaking surface gravity waves in the surf zone are measured using video processing techniques. The analysis of video data follows two lines. The...

Engineering Methods for Predicting Beach Profile Response
This papers contains a review of so-called 'engineering methods' for predicting beach profile change based on equilibrium profile concepts. In the first part...

Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...

Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...

A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...

Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...

Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...

A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...

Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...

Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...

Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...

Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...

Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...

Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...

Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...

Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...

Gravel Spit Stabilized by Unusual(?) High-Energy Wave Climate in Bay Side, Tierra Del Fuego
A 17 km-long sand and gravel spit grew from the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego in the late Holocene, semi-enclosing a large and deep embayment. Strong westerly winds generate high-energy...

 

 

 

 

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