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Analysis of Prototype Long Period Waves for Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbor Resonance Studies
Long period wave data have been collected at an offshore wave gage and system harbor gages for over eight years in the Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbor region. These expansion of the harbors....

Nonlinear Decomposition of a 2-D Wave Field
Based on an understanding of nonlinear wave interaction in dual component wave, a new numerical scheme allowing for hybrid wave-mode modeling has been developed. in the hybrid wave-mode...

A Comparison of Three Wave-Measuring Buoys
We compare the performance of three wave-measuring buoys: a Seatex Wavescan^TM, an Endeco/YSI Wavetrack^TM,...

Low-frequency Fluctuations of Suspended Sand and Wave Groups in the Surf Zone
Field observations of the sand suspension near the bottom in surf zone are presented and discussed. Calculated spectra of suspended sand concentration and wave envelope was found to be...

Implementation and Validation of a Global Third-Generation Wave Model at Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center
The third-generation Wave Model (WAM) is currently being implemented at the U.S. Navy's Fleet Numerical Oceanography Center (FLENUMOCEANCEN) to replace the operational Global Spectral...

Predicting Wave Spectra With a Third Generation Spectral Wave Model
the ability of the third generation spectral wave model, 3GWAM, to simulate frequency and directional spectra during a northeast storm of October 1990 along the U.S. mid-Atlantic coast...

Experimental Study of Monochromatic Wave-Ebb Current Interaction
Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 26-m by 36-m basin with a 1:30 plan beach to study the interaction of monochromatic waves and an ebb current in and near shallow entrance channel....

Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...

Propagation of Linear Gravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents
A detailed derivation of some kinematic and dynamic properties linear surface gravity waves-current interaction. The obtained expressions, which are exact within the framework of linear...

Comparisons of Directional Wave Analysis Methods
Four methods analysing directional wave spectrum were testes and compared through numerical simulation. The four methods are (i) the truncated Fourier series (TFS), (ii) the Longuet-Higgins...

A Second-Generation Wave Model for Coastal Wave Prediction
A second-generation numerical wave model, WINDWAVE, has been developed for wave prediction in coastal regions. The modal is based on the numerical integration of the energy balance equation...

Numerical Modeling of Waves in Harbors
The numerical wave model HARBD has been used extensively for estimating waves in harbors. The model is used to simulate laboratory tests of long waves in a rectangular harbor with variable...

Physical Modelling of Multidirectional Waves
A sixty-segment wave generator has been used since 1985 at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory of the National Research Council (NRC) of Canada to generate multidirectional waves, and study...

A Spectral Wave Model for the Coastal Zone
Spectral wave models that represent the evolution of the waves on a grid superior in several respects to conventional wave ray models. Spectral models on a grid have been developed for...

Nonlinear Effects on Wave Envelope and Phase
The representation of second-order random waves is examined in terms of the effect of second-order nonlinearities on the wave envelope and phase. Theoretical expressions describing the...

Modeling Bottom Friction in Wind-Wave Models
Effects of bottom friction in wind-wave models are investigated, with an emphasis on wave-induced bottom roughnesses (moveable-bed effects). A state-of-the-art bottom friction model is...

Spectral Boussinesq Modelling of Breaking Waves
Random waves passing over a shallow bar are considered, in particular the amplification of bound harmonics in shoaling water, their subsequent release in deepening water, and the role...

Evolution of Breaking Directional Spectral Waves in the Nearshore Zone
Methods used in parabolic refraction-diffraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions....

Design Waves and Wave Spectra for Engineering Applications
Thirteen years of hourly wave data measured at two of the National Data Buoy Center's (NDBC) buoy stations, one located in the northeastern Pacific and the other located in the northwestern...

The Evolution of Breakwater Design
The purpose of this paper is to present a view of the evolution of both the rubble mound and vertical faced breakwaters from the earliest design through the Iribarren and Hudson era. Determining...

 

 

 

 

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