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A Piston-Type Nonlinear Wavemaker Theory
In this paper, the small-amplitude surface waves produced by a piston-type nonlinear porous wavemaker in an infinitely and a semi-infinitely long channel are studied. Analytical solution...

Model Comparisons of Harbor Wave Response
Physical and numerical model tests were conducted for an idealized, flat-bottom rectangular harbor, entrance channel, and nearshore bathymetry. Bathymetry of the entrance channel and offshore...

Method for Treating the Stochastic Nature of Water Level and Wave Climate in Determining Economically Optimal Channel Depth at Small-Boat Harbors
Engineering and economic aspects of channel depth at small-boat harbors is discussed. The concept of wave-adjusted water level is shown to be important to specifying channel bottom elevation....

Rehabilitation of Vertical Thin-Walled Breakwater
Physical hydraulic model tests were conducted to measure wave transmission and force characteristics of a partial vertical thin-walled breakwater. Tests were run for the breakwater in...

Marsh Erosion by Wave Action
This paper summarizes an analysis of salt marsh shoreline erosion, wind velocities and wave energy in Corte Madera Bay during an abnormally calm period in 1989. Winds during the study...

Geomorphic Analysis for Enhancement and Restoration of the Tijuana Estuary, California
Geomorphic analysis and results of field investigations in the Tijuana Estuary, California, are used in developing the rationale for an enhancement and restoration design that increases...

Coastal Erosion Problems in Romania
The paper presents some geomorphological features and erosion problems of the Romanian coast. We also reveal wind and wave climates. General characteristics of the sediments on the entire...

The Coastline of Bangladesh?An Overview of Processes and Forms
The paper describes the coastline of Bangladesh the inlet system, geometry, hydro-geo-morphological characteristics and the processes with which it is formed. The coastline has been identified...

Nantucket Island's Shifting Shoals and Moving Shores: Near-shore Bathymetry Controls Beach Deposition and Erosion
Historical records and our observations show that the near-shore shoal complex of Pochick Rip and Old Man Shoal has slowly but continuously built to the north along Nantucket Island's...

Shoreline Response to Offshore Shoals and Storms, Low Beach, Nantucket, MA
Low Beach is located on the southeast side of Nantucket Island, which is approximately 20 miles offshore from the Cape Cod mainland. It is currently the site of a municipal wastewater...

Reactivation of the Oil and Hazardous Materials Simulated Environmental Test Tank (OHMSETT) Facility
The Oil and Hazardous Materials Simulated Environmental Test Tank (OHMSETT) was run by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) from 1974 to 1988. This open-air tank was used to test...

Detection of 2-D Nearshore Wave Patterns Using Linear Prediction and SAR Data
Extraction of wave parameters such as wavelength and direction on radar images is normaly done using fast Fourier transforms (FFT) on typical image size of 256 ? 256 which may not be appropriate...

Ocean Wave Propagation up a Narrow Channel
The results of a hydraulic model investigation of ocean wave propagation up a narrow channel are reported. Both monochromatic and random waves were used to study the wave characteristics...

Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....

Great Lakes Wave Runup Methodology Study
The Great Lakes region has 5,480 miles of U.S. lakeshore. Located along this shoreline are approximately 340 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study sites with the associated...

Field Experiment of a Wave Power Extracting Caisson Breakwater
The Ministry of Transport of Japan (MOT) is currently developing a fixed-OWC wave power converter called a wave power extracting caisson. This device can be used as caissons for composite-type...

Scour Around Cylindrical Piles Due to Wave Motion in the Surf-Zone
The paper discusses the results of experimental tests to study scouring phenomena around cylindrical piles during a sea storm with reference to the modelling of a beach profile in the...

Implications of Sea-Level Rise and Climate Change on Two Developing Resort Islands in Thailand and Singapore
The increasing demand of coastal tourism in the East Asian Seas region has led to islands being developed into holiday resorts. The appeal of these resort islands depends on the developed...

Nature-Assisted Dune Restoration
The concept of finding and placing compatible sand along the coastal shoreline for dune restoration is presented. Laboratory experimental result supporting this concept is reported. Field...

Factors Influencing the Settlement of California Halibut
California halibut (Paralichthys californicus) is an important species to recreational and commercial fisheries of California. The species typically uses coastal bays and wetlands as nursery...

 

 

 

 

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