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Ocean Wave Propagation up a Narrow Channel
The results of a hydraulic model investigation of ocean wave propagation up a narrow channel are reported. Both monochromatic and random waves were used to study the wave characteristics...

Waves on Coral Reefs
In connection with hydraulic studies for development of a new harbour on the SW-corner of Male Island in the Maldives, the author took an interest in the phenomena of waves on coral reefs....

Great Lakes Wave Runup Methodology Study
The Great Lakes region has 5,480 miles of U.S. lakeshore. Located along this shoreline are approximately 340 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study sites with the associated...

Field Experiment of a Wave Power Extracting Caisson Breakwater
The Ministry of Transport of Japan (MOT) is currently developing a fixed-OWC wave power converter called a wave power extracting caisson. This device can be used as caissons for composite-type...

Scour Around Cylindrical Piles Due to Wave Motion in the Surf-Zone
The paper discusses the results of experimental tests to study scouring phenomena around cylindrical piles during a sea storm with reference to the modelling of a beach profile in the...

Nature-Assisted Dune Restoration
The concept of finding and placing compatible sand along the coastal shoreline for dune restoration is presented. Laboratory experimental result supporting this concept is reported. Field...

Factors Influencing the Settlement of California Halibut
California halibut (Paralichthys californicus) is an important species to recreational and commercial fisheries of California. The species typically uses coastal bays and wetlands as nursery...

HF Radar Ocean Surface Mapping in Monterey Bay as a Prototype for California Coastal Environmental Monitoring and Governance
A network of coastal HF radars is being established to provide real-time coverage of ocean surface currents, onshore waves, and ultimately wind fields over Monterey Bay. Data products...

Review of Recent Coastal Research in the Soviet Union
Information about sediment suspension regularities, their distribution in the water column and ways of sediment transport is indispensible for the solution of ecological and sea culture...

Saline Intrusion in Marine Effluent Outfalls
The paper presents an experimental investigation of saline intrusion in long sea outfalls. This intrusion is caused by the influx of sea water that may occur during periods of low discharge,...

NDBC's Observations in the Coastal Zone
The National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) has been collecting data from coastal buoys since 1979. Measurements, taken each hour, include wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height,...

Phased Engineering Development and Multiple Agency Review of Public Safety Issues
Several Santa Barbara County agencies have key engineering review responsibilities for new development. The magnitude of issues raised and the level of engineering review required for...

Turbulence Measurements and Parameterizations
Bottom boundary layer and exchange models account for high frequency turbulence via Reynold's averaging and the most advanced closure formulations required by this averaging...

Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...

Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transport
A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive...

Sediment Transport in the Swash Due to Obliquely Incident Wind-Waves Modulated by Infragravity Waves
Swash is described by obliquely incident wind-waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves of the inner surf zone are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber...

Infragravity Driven Suspended Sediment Transport in the Swash, Inner and Outer-Surf Zone
Nearbed suspended sediment concentration and velocity measurements from 3 field sites in the mid-outer surf zone (low energy), inner surf zone (high energy) and swash (high energy) are...

Effect of Long Waves to Local Sediment Transport Rate
When irregular waves travel to the shoreline, long wave component becomes important in the surf zone. In the surf zone, sands are transported by both wave motion and turbulence due to...

Critical Examination of Longshore Transport Rate Magnitude
Inconsistencies in the field data and predictions of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates associated with the CERC and Bagnold formulae are discussed. Practical errors in direct application...

Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Distribution
The initial analysis of a new set of experimental data on alongshore sediment transport rate distribution is presented. The distributions were generally found to be bimodal but tended...

 

 

 

 

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