Suspended Sediment Load at Three Time Scales
Suspended sediment loads were examined at the three time scales of time-series-averaged, wave-by-wave and instantaneous during the wave cycle. Field measurements recorded on a natural...
Monitoring the Response of the Inter-Tidal Beach Profile to Tidal and Wave Forcing
The need for sets of beach profile and wave data of one year duration, sampled at sub-weekly intervals, is well recognised in the literature. Some of the initial data from a macro-tidal...
Sediment Transport by Strong Wave-Plus-Current Flows
A prediction formula is derived for the suspended sediment transport rate in coastal regions when the current speed and/or wave orbital velocity is large. It is based on generalised forms...
Turbulence Modelling of Suspended Sediment in the Surf Zone
A computational model is developed for the prediction of the wave period averaged turbulence structure under a breaking wave. The principal forcing function for the model is the generation...
Effects of Fluid Accelerations on Sediment Transport in Surf Zones
Two hydraulic model tests were run in a wave flume using irregular waves to obtain detailed data on the cross-shore variations of the pressure gradient on a 1:20 smooth, impermeable slope....
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Modelling and Comparison with Tests at Prototype Scale
A series of prototype scale laboratory experiments have been performed at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) in Hanover to investigate the process of sediment transport over a horizontal bed...
Mean Currents and Sediment Transport at DELILAH
Bailard's sediment transport model (1981) is used as a framework to test the hypothesis that mean currents can dominate nearshore sediment transport. The data acquired during...
Estimation of Overwash Bore Velocities Using Video Techniques
Overwash data were collected at a site on the Isles Dernieres, LA barrier island chain during Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988. A video technique was applied that allowed the quantification...
Process Variation Across a Barred, Tidal Nearshore
Detailed measurements of nearshore motions and morphologic change across the inner bar-trough of a barred, tidal beach were taken at Canaveral N.S., Florida. Tidal range was <1...
Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...
Phase Speed and Angle of Breaking Waves Measured with Video Techniques
The phase speed and incident angle of breaking surface gravity waves in the surf zone are measured using video processing techniques. The analysis of video data follows two lines. The...
Engineering Methods for Predicting Beach Profile Response
This papers contains a review of so-called 'engineering methods' for predicting beach profile change based on equilibrium profile concepts. In the first part...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...
A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
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