Wave-Current Interaction with a Large Structure
The effects of a current on the diffraction of regular waves around a three-dimensional body are examined by a time-domain method. The Froude number is assumed to be small so that the...
Three-Dimensional Circulation Modeling of the Coastal and Ocean Environments
Incursion of the loop current, a meandering feature of Gulf of Mexico large-scale circulation, may produce large hydrodynamic forces on the offshore structures. The present study is to...
Use of X-Ray Computed Tomography in the Study of Marine Sediments
X-ray computed tomography (CT scanning) is primarily a medical imaging technique. When applied to marine sediments, it responds predominately to the spatial density distribution within...
Laboratory Methods for Preparing Low-Density Frozen Saline Soil Samples
Laboratory methods were developed for preparing low-density frozen saline soil samples with density values ranging from 85-110 lb/ft3. This range...
An Adaptive Importance Sampling Strategy
An adaptive importance sampling scheme is presented. The scheme updates both the estimate of system failure probability and the importance sampling density. The sampling density used is...
On the Transformation of Wave Spectra by Currents and Bathymetry
Application of the conservation principle for action spectral density along rays, frequently described in literature, is not sufficient to specify the refracted wave spectrum. In order...
Boundary Element Calculation of Nonlinear Wave Generation and Wave Current Interactions
A boundary element model is used to simulate the problem of nonlinear wave generation, and the interactions of wave and current. The numerical model is established based on the potential...
Large Deflection of Simply Supported Inplane Loading Rectangular Plate Under Uniform Random Pressure
The procedure for obtaining an approximate solution for the mean-square deflection as well as maximum mean-square stress of geometrically nonlinear rectangular plate with arbitary power...
Assessing the Needs of Coastal Zone Management Education for the 1990s
Since the Coastal Zone Management Act (CZMA, 72) was enacted in 1972, nearly two decades ago, a profession of coastal zone managers has emerged. To meet the growing demand created for...
Importance of the Surf Zone of Exposed Sandy Beaches for the Development of Juvenile
Sandy beaches dominate most of the tropical and temperate coastlines. Studies of nearshore ichthyofauna, in different regions of the world, have revealed the frequent occurrence of juvenile...
Opportunities in Applied Oceanography in the California Current
Recent developments within the US oceanographic research community and around the world have made it possible to provide ocean and atmosphere information and products in near real time...
Multiple Use Ocean Management in the U.S.: Toward a New Conceptual Framework
Problems with the sectorally based, largely single-purpose approach to the management of ocean resources and ocean space in the United States have been amply documented in recent years....
A New Panama Canal?
Based upon the 1977 treaty between the United States and Panama and an exchange of diplomatic notes among Panama, Japan and United States, a trinational feasibility study is being conducted...
Observations of Seasonal and Interseasonal Variability in Shelikof Strait, Alaska
Nearly five years of monthly mean current data from two locations (one nearshore on the shallow shelf and one in the Shelikof sea valley) are used in conjunction with surface geostrophic...
NOAA's Coastal Ocean Database and FOCOS Program
The NOAA Center for Ocean Analysis and Prediction (COAP) was recently formed in Monterey to support collection, distribution, and analysis of marine data for application to coastal ocean...
Rip Currents: Human Impact and Forecastibility
Annually, a large number of people in the United States drown in the surf zone. This study determines the number of surf drownings each year, mainly in Dade and Broward counties of southeast...
Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Sediment Transport by Strong Wave-Plus-Current Flows
A prediction formula is derived for the suspended sediment transport rate in coastal regions when the current speed and/or wave orbital velocity is large. It is based on generalised forms...
Shoreface Connected Ridges Along the Dutch Coast
Quasi-synoptic current measurements were obtained across the Dutch shoreface connected ridges using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. The measurements are used to evaluate the role...
Trapping and Escape of Fine-Grained Sediments: Neuse River Estuary, N.C.
The Neuse River estuary and its receiving basin, Pamlico Sound, are part of a system that comprises large, shallow bodies of water which have little or no free connection with the open...
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