Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Sediment Transport by Strong Wave-Plus-Current Flows
A prediction formula is derived for the suspended sediment transport rate in coastal regions when the current speed and/or wave orbital velocity is large. It is based on generalised forms...
Shoreface Connected Ridges Along the Dutch Coast
Quasi-synoptic current measurements were obtained across the Dutch shoreface connected ridges using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. The measurements are used to evaluate the role...
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Quantifying Mud Exchange Between the Eastern Scheldt Tidal Basin and the North Sea
Net transport of sediment < 53 ?m through the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt has been quantified. Combination of data on spatial and temporal variability shows that incertainties...
Trapping and Escape of Fine-Grained Sediments: Neuse River Estuary, N.C.
The Neuse River estuary and its receiving basin, Pamlico Sound, are part of a system that comprises large, shallow bodies of water which have little or no free connection with the open...
Observations of a Tidal Inlet on a Shingle Beach
An observation and measurement program was undertaken at Batiquitos Lagoon, San Diego County, California to better understand the paths and rates of shingle movement in the littoral zone....
The Oceanside Experimental Sand Bypass?The Next Step
Following the completion and successful operation of the first phase of the Oceanside Sand Bypass, the next step in the development of the experiment has begun. The Phase I plant is not...
Net Late Holocene Emergence Despite Earthquake-Induced Submergence, South-Central Chile
Intertidal deposits show net late Holocene emergence along the Pacific coast near Maullin and Carelmapu, Chile (latitude 41.6?-41.7?S). The maximum amount of net emergence is about 1 m...
The Stratigraphic Record of Oxygen Isotope Stage 5 on the Maryland Inner Shelf
Present knowledge of Holocene transgressive coastal/shelf systems, while extensive, cannot directly address the effects and consequences of an extended period of relatively high sea levels...
Historical Coastal Morphodynamics at St. Marys Entrance and Vicinity, Florida, U.S.A.
St. Marys Entrance is an Atlantic Ocean tidal inlel located on the Florida-Georgia state border. At the end of the nineteenth century rubble-mound jetties were constructed. Large-scale...
Regional Sediment Transport in the Coastal Boundary Layer of the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea
The characteristics of regional sediment transport in the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea Coastal Ocean are defined by sources, marine sediment dynamics, and areas of net sedimentation. These...
Mechanisms of Coastal Cliff Erosion in Ceredigion, West Wales, UK
Investigation of cliff recession along 20km of the West Wales coastline has recognised erosion processes and mechanisms. Mean contemporary recession rates of 13cm/year have been measured...
Seacliff Retreat and Coarse Sediment Yields in Southern California
Seacliffs are erosional slopes. They form when a receding shoreline impinges on coastal terraces, hills, or mountains. Wave-caused erosion at the base of a seacliff controls its long-term...
Rehabilitation of the South Jetty-Ocean City, Maryland
The south jetty at Ocean City, Maryland was rebuilt in 1985 to reduce the frequent shoaling in Ocean City Inlet. The project consists of a new jetty offset 30 feet south of the existing...
Analysis of Transport Processes on Ocean Disposal Mound
Disposal site 'F', an ocean disposal site for dredged sediments from Coos Bay, Oregon was designed to be a dispersive site. The site has not demonstrated high...
Complex Principal Component Analysis of Wave-Like Sand Motions
Complex Principal Component Analysis is applied to bathymetric data from the SUPERDUCK experiment at Duck, NC. This approach is shown to describe more of the variation with fewer functions...
Coastal Sediment Budget Analysis Techniques
Sediment budget analysis techniques developed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Wilmington District are described. The basic procedure combines information on shoreline and tidal inlet...
Sediment Budget at Oceanside, California, Calculated Using a Calibrated Shoreline Change Model
A quantitative sediment budget analysis was made for the shoreline segment extending from 4 miles north to 4 miles south of Oceanside Harbor using a calibrated shoreline change model....
The Santa Cruz Littoral Cell: Difficulties in Quantifying a Coastal Sediment Budget
Beach compartments or littoral cells form the framework for our understanding of the sources, transport, sinks, and storage of sand in the nearshore zone. In general, along the California...
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