Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Observations of a Tidal Inlet on a Shingle Beach
An observation and measurement program was undertaken at Batiquitos Lagoon, San Diego County, California to better understand the paths and rates of shingle movement in the littoral zone....
Problems with Predicting the Transport of Pumiceous Sediments in the Coastal Environment
Pumice is often a major component of coastal sediments associated with subduction zone volcanic settings. Several recent studies in New Zealand have highlighted the difficulties of predicting...
Accurate Shoreline Mapping: Past, Present, and Future
Mapping historical shoreline changes and predicting future shoreline positions requires both accurate and precise analyses of time-dependent fluctuations in water levels and sediment volumes...
Geologic Framework and Depositional History of the Southeastern Texas Coast
Effective management of coastal resources and accurate prediction of future land losses are impeded by the lack of geologic framework investigations that link coastal processes with depositional...
Optimization of Maintenance for Coastal Inlets with Uncertainty
Maintenance dredging costs the nation roughly $400 million per year. Yet, relative to other areas of water resources engineering, little attempt has been made to apply operations research...
Short-Term Characteristics of Coastal Lagoon Entrances in California
Methods of predicting the frequency of lagoon opening conditions and the cross-sectional area of the inlet channel are reviewed. The potential variation from these empirical relations...
Wave-Current Interaction at Wells Inlet, Maine
Wells Inlet is a jettied waterway along the southern coast of Maine. Since its initial structuring and dredging for harborage, the inlet has been plagued by severe shoaling. The jetties...
Historical Morphologic Evolution and Sedimentation at Barataria Pass, Louisiana
Barataria Pass, Louisiana, one of the most commercially important tidal inlets in the Gulf of Mexico, has undergone several stages of development since 1840. The shore-parallel growth...
Processes of Sediment Transport and Ebb Tidal Delta Development at a Jettied Inlet
This paper deals with the development of the ebb tidal delta following the extension of jetties at a tidal river entrance. The growth rate and morphological change are discussed using...
Historical Coastal Morphodynamics at St. Marys Entrance and Vicinity, Florida, U.S.A.
St. Marys Entrance is an Atlantic Ocean tidal inlel located on the Florida-Georgia state border. At the end of the nineteenth century rubble-mound jetties were constructed. Large-scale...
Thoughts on Large Scale Coastal Behavior
Large scale coastal behaviour (LSCB) deals with the development of coastal profiles and sediment budgets of a large coastal stretch (order tens of km's) over a considerable...
Regional Sediment Transport in the Coastal Boundary Layer of the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea
The characteristics of regional sediment transport in the Central Alaskan Beaufort Sea Coastal Ocean are defined by sources, marine sediment dynamics, and areas of net sedimentation. These...
Large-Scale Coastal Evolution of Louisiana's Barrier Islands
The prediction of large-scale coastal change is an extremely important, but distant goal. Here we describe some of our initial efforts in this direction, using historical bathymetric information...
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