Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
Trapping and Escape of Fine-Grained Sediments: Neuse River Estuary, N.C.
The Neuse River estuary and its receiving basin, Pamlico Sound, are part of a system that comprises large, shallow bodies of water which have little or no free connection with the open...
Observation of Suspended Sediments in Mobile Bay, Alabama from Satellite
As part of a comprehensive geologic study of coastal Alabama and Mississippi, the U.S. Geological Survey is investigating coastal sediment transport in Mobile Bay and the adjacent shelf....
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Observations of a Tidal Inlet on a Shingle Beach
An observation and measurement program was undertaken at Batiquitos Lagoon, San Diego County, California to better understand the paths and rates of shingle movement in the littoral zone....
Problems with Predicting the Transport of Pumiceous Sediments in the Coastal Environment
Pumice is often a major component of coastal sediments associated with subduction zone volcanic settings. Several recent studies in New Zealand have highlighted the difficulties of predicting...
Accurate Shoreline Mapping: Past, Present, and Future
Mapping historical shoreline changes and predicting future shoreline positions requires both accurate and precise analyses of time-dependent fluctuations in water levels and sediment volumes...
Geologic Framework and Depositional History of the Southeastern Texas Coast
Effective management of coastal resources and accurate prediction of future land losses are impeded by the lack of geologic framework investigations that link coastal processes with depositional...
Geologic Controls on the Formation and Evolution of Quaternary Coastal Deposits of the Northern Gulf of Mexico
A study of the barrier islands and wetlands in the deltaic plain of Louisiana is presented. Its purpose was to document rapid changes and to learn more about the processes responsible...
Optimization of Maintenance for Coastal Inlets with Uncertainty
Maintenance dredging costs the nation roughly $400 million per year. Yet, relative to other areas of water resources engineering, little attempt has been made to apply operations research...
Short-Term Characteristics of Coastal Lagoon Entrances in California
Methods of predicting the frequency of lagoon opening conditions and the cross-sectional area of the inlet channel are reviewed. The potential variation from these empirical relations...
Implications of Accelerated Sea-Level Rise on Louisiana Coastal Environments
Natural and human-induced processes have combined to produce high rates of relative sea-level rise and coastal land loss in Louisiana. This paper presents historical trends in sea-level...
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