Mean Currents and Sediment Transport at DELILAH
Bailard's sediment transport model (1981) is used as a framework to test the hypothesis that mean currents can dominate nearshore sediment transport. The data acquired during...
Estimation of Overwash Bore Velocities Using Video Techniques
Overwash data were collected at a site on the Isles Dernieres, LA barrier island chain during Hurricane Gilbert in September 1988. A video technique was applied that allowed the quantification...
Process Variation Across a Barred, Tidal Nearshore
Detailed measurements of nearshore motions and morphologic change across the inner bar-trough of a barred, tidal beach were taken at Canaveral N.S., Florida. Tidal range was <1...
Shoreface Connected Ridges Along the Dutch Coast
Quasi-synoptic current measurements were obtained across the Dutch shoreface connected ridges using an acoustic Doppler current profiler. The measurements are used to evaluate the role...
Sand Ridges and Internal Waves on Continental Shelves
Large-amplitude internal waves generated by tidal fluctuations at the outer edge of the continental shelf propagate shoreward and interact with sediment on the shelf. A crude mathematical...
Engineering Methods for Predicting Beach Profile Response
This papers contains a review of so-called 'engineering methods' for predicting beach profile change based on equilibrium profile concepts. In the first part...
Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology
A one-dimensional, time-dependent model is presented which describes the evolution of wave groups and associated long waves over an arbitrary profile, in a short-wave averaged sense. Model...
A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges
In order to predict the amount of dune erosion due to a storm surge, a model for cross-shore transport during storm surges has been developed. During a storm with intensive wave breaking,...
Modelling of Cross-Shore Transport
The validity of cross-shore sediment transport modelling in terms of time-averaged velocities and concentrations has been investigated....
Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles
This paper presents a deterministic model for the morphological evolution of a coastal profile for direct incoming waves. The model contains description of waves across the coastal zone,...
Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Under Irregular Waves in Surf Zones
A numerical model is proposed to predict the free surface elevation and depth-averaged velocity in the surf and swash zones for normally incident random waves. Comparison of the numerical...
A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves
A numerical model was developed for random wave deformation and the resultant beach profile change. The model consisted of short-wave model based on parabolic equation, long-wave model...
Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Simulation of Bedload Transport of Marine Gravel
Using combined current meter and acoustic measurements, detailed concurrent time series of instantaneous bedload transport rates and flow turbulence have been obtained. The duration, interval...
Bedload Transport Measurement by Imaging of Tracers
A dyed-sand tracer technique is developed for investigation of bedload under laboratory oscillatory flows. Imaging of the tracer with high speed photography allows the creation of time...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
The Vertical Structure of Cross-Shore Currents from Wind-Induced Setup
Most of the storm surge models presented in the literature are vertically averaged and calculate only the sea-surface elevation and mean flow. Whereas these models may be adequate for...
Quantifying Mud Exchange Between the Eastern Scheldt Tidal Basin and the North Sea
Net transport of sediment < 53 ?m through the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt has been quantified. Combination of data on spatial and temporal variability shows that incertainties...
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