Wave Diffraction Patterns Behind Detached Breakwaters
This paper presents a theoretical model to examine the wave diffraction behind detached breakwaters subjected to regular oblique waves. The method of solution is an eigenfunction expansion...
A Mathematical Model for Predicting the Motion of Polluting Surface Plumes Due to Drift Currents
The paper analyzes the problem of displacement from the offshore to the nearshore of a polluting surface plume, subject to advection generated by wind-waves and wind-currents. After a...
Long Term Wave Statistics
Long term wave statistics are needed for many applications in coastal engineering and oceanography in the southern North Sea. Three sources of wave data are available: visual observations,...
Factors Responsible for Varying Granulometric Characteristics of Sediments from the Western Nigeria Coastline
The western Nigeria coastline stretches from Badagry in the west (Longitude 5?00'00E), covering a distance of about 275km. Two major geomorphic coastal units are recognized along this...
Development of the Long Caisson Type Vertical Breakwater
The width of the caisson of a breakwater is calculated based mainly on the wave force expected to act on the caisson. IN this calculation, the assumed wave force is the peak wave force...
Hydrologic Modelling of Extreme Flood on Small Mountainous Watersheds
Statistical and deterministic methods for extreme flood estimation were applied to Swiss alpine catchments to assess the application limits of each approach. Comparative results produced...
Manning's n From Experiments with Rainfall-Runoff on Portland Cement Concrete Surfaces
Experiments were conducted under artificial rainfall on Portland cement concrete (PCC) surfaces with variable mean texture depths (MTD) and slopes (S). Rain rates were varied up to 3 in/hr...
Dune Profiles Before and After Storm Events in Coastal Massachusetts
It is well known that short-term changes in dune profiles can have a major effect on the severity of storm damage to coastal areas. In light of this, the standardized methodology developed...
A Model for Low-Drag Landslides
Field observations and experimental records indicate that the primary mode of motion of many large landslides is that of sliding rather than flowing. Most of the shear during sliding is...
Protecting the Boca Raton Outfall Before and After Hurricane Andrew
A critical factor for the success of an ocean outfall is its ability to remain intact and functional for many decades of service, despite extreme episodes of wave attack and beach erosion....
Mechanics of Riprap Movement in Tidal Flow
This analysis emphasizes the need to obtain data on the size and shape of riprap pieces as a function of movement, data which are surprisingly difficult to obtain from published studies....
Flow and Scour Near an Abutment
Laboratory experiments were used in conjunction with a two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical flow model, RBFVM-2D, to investigate the relationship between flow velocity distribution...
Criticality of Density Intrusions
Previous analyses of density intrusions indicates that a steady interface cannot be maintained if the front propagates at a speed greater than that of long interfacial waves. Supercritical...
Mixing Characteristics of a Transitional Stratified Two-Layer Flow
Small scale structures in a stably stratified two-layer flow are investigated. The flow configuration has the initial velocity interface displaced with respect to the density interface....
A 2-D Numerical Model for High Velocity Channels
The hydraulic performance of a high velocity channel depends on maintaining a supercritical flow regime over specified portions of its length. Predicting the potential location of shocks...
Visualization and Analysis of Multi-Dimensional Velocity Measurements in Carquinez Strait, California
On 11 March, 12 March, 15 April, and 16 April, 1991 the United States Geological Survey (USGS), Sacramento, CA, employed a Downward Looking Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (DL-ADCP)...
Selective Withdrawal in a Rotating Stratified Fluid
In this paper we consider the axisymmetric flow of a rotating stratified fluid into a point sink. Linear analysis of the initial value problem of flow of a linearly stratified fluid into...
Mass Transport in Mud Layer Induced by Wave Action
This paper analyzes the mass transport velocity in a two layers system produced by wave action. In a previous paper, Piedra Cueva (1933), a theory for linear water waves propagating in...
Scour at Highway Structures in Tidal Waters
Scour analysis of bridges over tidal waterways uses the same scour equations as for the rivers. However, determining the hydraulic variables to use in the equations is complex. A major...
Model Technology for Estimating Storm-Induced Currents
This paper demonstrates the application of the one-dimensional shallow-water equation model DYNLETI at Brunswick Harbor, Georgia to simulate storm-induced velocities precisely at a bridge...
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