Monitoring the Response of the Inter-Tidal Beach Profile to Tidal and Wave Forcing
The need for sets of beach profile and wave data of one year duration, sampled at sub-weekly intervals, is well recognised in the literature. Some of the initial data from a macro-tidal...
Mean Currents and Sediment Transport at DELILAH
Bailard's sediment transport model (1981) is used as a framework to test the hypothesis that mean currents can dominate nearshore sediment transport. The data acquired during...
Process Variation Across a Barred, Tidal Nearshore
Detailed measurements of nearshore motions and morphologic change across the inner bar-trough of a barred, tidal beach were taken at Canaveral N.S., Florida. Tidal range was <1...
Engineering Methods for Predicting Beach Profile Response
This papers contains a review of so-called 'engineering methods' for predicting beach profile change based on equilibrium profile concepts. In the first part...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
Problems Associated with Deterministic Modelling of Extreme Beach Erosion Events
Recent developments in numerical modelling of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution have generally been based on a deterministic approach to the problem. That is to...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
Fine Grain Sediment Transport and Deposition in the Atchafalaya and Chenier Plain Sedimentary System
The most extensive land loss and land accretion processes in the U.S. are occuring in the Mississippi River Delta Plain. Some 40 square miles of valuable marshlands are lost annually....
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Gravel Spit Stabilized by Unusual(?) High-Energy Wave Climate in Bay Side, Tierra Del Fuego
A 17 km-long sand and gravel spit grew from the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego in the late Holocene, semi-enclosing a large and deep embayment. Strong westerly winds generate high-energy...
Observations of a Tidal Inlet on a Shingle Beach
An observation and measurement program was undertaken at Batiquitos Lagoon, San Diego County, California to better understand the paths and rates of shingle movement in the littoral zone....
Accurate Shoreline Mapping: Past, Present, and Future
Mapping historical shoreline changes and predicting future shoreline positions requires both accurate and precise analyses of time-dependent fluctuations in water levels and sediment volumes...
Processes Controlling the Retreat of the Isles Dernieres, A Louisiana Barrier-Island Chain
The Isles Dernieres is a low-lying, transgressive barrier-island chain situated about 150 km west of the modern Mississippi delta. Much of the Isles Dernieres consists of highly dissected...
Response of Lagoons to Sea Level Change
Relative sea level change and sediment accumulation rates are compared for 21 lagoons on the U.S. Atlantic and Gulf coasts to determine their accretionary status. The lagoons reviewed...
Regional Beach Sand Volumes of the Pacific Northwest, USA
Eight small littoral cells ranging from 5-60 km in length have been surveyed by beach profiling and seismic refraction to establish active beach sand volumes in the Pacific Northwest region....
Erosion and Accretion Along the Arctic Coast of Alaska: The Influence of Ice and Climate
Coastline comparison on 1951 and 1981 charts to determine erosion and accretion showed that ocean-facing coastal bluffs were retreating while deltas were rapidly expanding. Where the coast...
Sea-Cliff Erosion Along the Oregon Coast
Sea-cliff erosion is a problem along the coast of Oregon in that many communities have been built on terraces affected by bluff retreat. There is considerable coast-wide variability in...
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