Transformation of Random Breaking Waves and Its Empirical Numerical Modeling Considering Surf Beat
The free surface characteristics of random waves in the shoaling and surf zones on a beach of uniform slope were examined experimentally. The effect of incident wave grouping was found...
Simulation of Bedload Transport of Marine Gravel
Using combined current meter and acoustic measurements, detailed concurrent time series of instantaneous bedload transport rates and flow turbulence have been obtained. The duration, interval...
Bedload Transport Measurement by Imaging of Tracers
A dyed-sand tracer technique is developed for investigation of bedload under laboratory oscillatory flows. Imaging of the tracer with high speed photography allows the creation of time...
Bedload Transport Under Low Frequency Waves
The concept of a bedload spectrum, showing the distribution of energy with frequency in the bedload process, is proposed. The bedload process is thus analysed in the frequency rather than...
The Effect of Beach Slope on Oscillatory Flow Bedload Transport
The data for five laboratory sloping bed bedload sediment transport experiments are presented. Each consists of a series of half cycle transport rate measurements using the same waveform...
The Vertical Structure of Cross-Shore Currents from Wind-Induced Setup
Most of the storm surge models presented in the literature are vertically averaged and calculate only the sea-surface elevation and mean flow. Whereas these models may be adequate for...
Quantifying Mud Exchange Between the Eastern Scheldt Tidal Basin and the North Sea
Net transport of sediment < 53 ?m through the mouth of the Eastern Scheldt has been quantified. Combination of data on spatial and temporal variability shows that incertainties...
Observation of Suspended Sediments in Mobile Bay, Alabama from Satellite
As part of a comprehensive geologic study of coastal Alabama and Mississippi, the U.S. Geological Survey is investigating coastal sediment transport in Mobile Bay and the adjacent shelf....
Fine Grain Sediment Transport and Deposition in the Atchafalaya and Chenier Plain Sedimentary System
The most extensive land loss and land accretion processes in the U.S. are occuring in the Mississippi River Delta Plain. Some 40 square miles of valuable marshlands are lost annually....
Sedimentation Processes in Morro Bay, California
A series of field investigations and historical data analyses were conducted to determine historical sedimentation processes in Morro Bay, California. Three sources of sediment were identified:...
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Beach Profiles vs. Cross-Shore Distributions of Sediment Grain Sizes
In the present paper, field results are reported from various tideless beaches in Greece with mixed sedimentary environments. The two classical beach profiles are examined in terms of...
Effect of Varying Sediment Size on Equilibrium Beach Profiles
Beach profiles from four field sites and accompanying data describing the cross-shore distribution of median sediment size are analyzed and compared to predicted profiles based on an equilibrium...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
The Sedimentary Organisation and Behaviour of Drift-Aligned Gravel Barriers
Drift-aligned barriers formed of coarse clastic materials and described in terms of their organisational evolution at two levels, a) sorting and selection of clasts; b) development of...
Conglomeratic Shoreface Deposits from the Cretaceous Cardium Formation, Alberta, Canada
Conglomeratic shoreface deposits of the Upper Cretaceous Cardium Formation are well exposed at an outcrop in northwestern Alberta. The conglomerates there compose over 80% of the total...
Gravel Spit Stabilized by Unusual(?) High-Energy Wave Climate in Bay Side, Tierra Del Fuego
A 17 km-long sand and gravel spit grew from the Atlantic coast of Tierra del Fuego in the late Holocene, semi-enclosing a large and deep embayment. Strong westerly winds generate high-energy...
Problems with Predicting the Transport of Pumiceous Sediments in the Coastal Environment
Pumice is often a major component of coastal sediments associated with subduction zone volcanic settings. Several recent studies in New Zealand have highlighted the difficulties of predicting...
Geologic Framework and Depositional History of the Southeastern Texas Coast
Effective management of coastal resources and accurate prediction of future land losses are impeded by the lack of geologic framework investigations that link coastal processes with depositional...
Cyclonic Events and Sedimentation in the Gulf of Mexico
An ample literature exists documenting the destructive effects hurricanes have upon offshore barrier islands and coastlines. The Gulf of Mexico region has been especially heavily impacted...
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