Moving Muds in the Marine Environment
Fine sediments with cohesive properties abound in the marine environment. We review idealized relationships that are useful in understanding flow behavior of important components of marine...
Infragravity Waves, Longshore Currents, and Linear Sand Bar Formation
A new hypothesis regarding the role of infragravity waves in controlling the formation and offshore migration of linear (2-dimensional) sand bars is presented. The hypothesis is dependent...
Effect of Long Waves to Local Sediment Transport Rate
When irregular waves travel to the shoreline, long wave component becomes important in the surf zone. In the surf zone, sands are transported by both wave motion and turbulence due to...
Longshore Sand Transport Rate Distributions Measured in Lake Michigan
Cross-shore and vertical distributions of longshore sand transport in the nearshore zone were measured in a field data collection project conducted at Ludington, Michigan, on the east...
Shear Velocity and Eolian Sand Transport on a Barrier Island
Nearly 18 months of simultaneous measurements of atmospheric shear velocity, sand transport quantity, and beach erosion survey were made to investigate the rate of eolian sand transport...
Sand Movement by Wind?Optimising Predictive Power
The aim of the work reported here was to develop a model for the efficient utilisation of standard anemometer data for the prediction of potential sand movement. Accurate aeolian sand...
The Effect of Beach Vegetation on Aeolian Sand Transport
The effect of coastal vegetation on aeolian sand transport is examined through consideration of the governing aerodynamic processes. Local scale processes without the effect of ground...
Functioning of Multi-Row Sand Fences in Forming Foredunes
Foredunes on sandy beaches are best developed through use of a series of fences by which dune height and width can be controlled. In a previous paper, the authors examined the functioning...
Littoral Dune Transport and Morphology Under a Variable Wind Regime
Most of the large dunes are generally produced by a permanent or quasi-permanent winds. Usually winds present strong concentrations of its directional spectrum around its mean direction....
Grain-Shape Analysis of Littoral and Shelf Sands, Southern California
Estimation of the exchange rates and determination of transport mechanisms and pathways associated with the onshore-offshore vector is one of the greatest sources of error in sediment...
Equilibrium Profile of a Beach with Varying Grain Size
The classical concave equilibrium profile shape proposed by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977) is modified to incorporate a varying grain size across-shore. On most beaches the median grain...
Longshore Transport of Pebbles: Experimental Estimates of K
Three tracer experiments which provide estimates of the coefficient of proportionality (K) for the longshore transport of pebbles in the CERC equation are reconsidered. The values are...
Late Quaternary Geologic Framework, North-Central Gulf of Mexico
The geologic framework of the north-central Gulf of Mexico shelf is composed of multiple, stacked, delta systems. Shelf and nearshore sedimentary facies were deposited by deltaic progradation,...
Processes Controlling the Retreat of the Isles Dernieres, A Louisiana Barrier-Island Chain
The Isles Dernieres is a low-lying, transgressive barrier-island chain situated about 150 km west of the modern Mississippi delta. Much of the Isles Dernieres consists of highly dissected...
Sand Bypassing at Indian River Inlet, Delaware
To solve a beach erosion problem north of Indian River Inlet, Delaware, the US Army Corps of Engineers Philadelphia District and the State of Delaware have constructed a fixed plant sand...
Geomorphology and Sedimentation Patterns of Tidal Inlets: A Review
Tidal inlets are generally formed by either of two mechanisms: storm generated scour channels, and closure of estuarine entrances by growth of sand spits. On depositional, coastal plain...
Regional Beach Sand Volumes of the Pacific Northwest, USA
Eight small littoral cells ranging from 5-60 km in length have been surveyed by beach profiling and seismic refraction to establish active beach sand volumes in the Pacific Northwest region....
Physical Modelling of Pocket Beaches
The design of artificial beach systems is dependent upon the modelling criteria and on the selection of the sand material to be used for nourishment. In order to obtain a stable beach...
Spit Formation in Lake and Bay
A technique of superimposing beach profiles, as a method for analyzing the characteristics and deformation process of a sand spit topography, is proposed, and the morphological changes...
Post-
Hurricane Hugo caused unprecedented damage and extensive beach erosion in South Carolina on 22 September 1989. One week after Hugo, a plan was prepared to push up an emergency dune along...
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