Maximum Breaker Height

by Richard J. Weggel, Hydr. Engr.; Engrg. Dev. Div., U.S. Army Coastal Engrg. Res. Center, Washington, DC,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division, 1972, Vol. 98, Issue 4, Pg. 529-548

Document Type: Journal Paper


Based on a re-evaluation of available experimental data on breaking waves, a relationship between the breaker height-breaking depth ratio, the incident wave steepness and the beach slope is found. This relationship, when combined with experimental observations of breaker travel, permits an estimate of the maximum breaking wave height a coastal structure might experience given a design wave period and design depth at the structure site. Breaker-type classification according to inshore and offshore parameters as presently defined cannot be reconciled to observations of the relationship between breaker-height index, wave steepness and beach slope. Revised criteria for breaker classification are presented.

Subject Headings: Breaking waves | Beaches | Slopes | Ocean waves | Permits | Wave height | Parameters (statistics)

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