Evolution of Breaking Directional Spectral Waves in the Nearshore Zone

by H. Tuba Özkan, Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,
James T. Kirby, (M.ASCE), Univ of Delaware, Newark, United States,

Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis


Methods used in parabolic refraction-diffraction models for computing the evolution of monochromatic waves in the nearshore zone are used to construct a model for spectral wave conditions. The two dimensional spectrum is divided into discrete wave components and the individual wave components are computed simultaneously in the domain using parabolic models for each wave component. Statistical quantities are computed at each forward step in the parabolic scheme and used to construct a statistical wave breaking model. The breaking model is built into the parabolic model equation using an additional breaking term. Model results are compared to available one- or two-dimensional data.

Subject Headings: Breaking waves | Two-dimensional models | Computer models | Wave spectrum | Nearshore | Water waves | Wave refraction | Mathematical models

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