Propagation of Linear Gravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth and Currents

by Francisco J. Rivero, Univ Politecnia de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain,
Agust?n S.-Arcilla, Univ Politecnia de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain,

Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis


A detailed derivation of some kinematic and dynamic properties linear surface gravity waves-current interaction. The obtained expressions, which are exact within the framework of linear wave theory in the mild-slope approximation, differ from those normally given in the literature. The observed differences appear to be particularly relevant when horizontal gradients of wave amplitude and ambient current velocity field are not negligible. A new small parameter ?, termed `phased lag', is defined as a measure of horizontal inhomogeneities (due to currents and depth variations) and their effects. A numerical model for linear waves based on the rederived kinematic and dynamic equations has been implemented to evaluate the significance of the newly obtained correction terms.

Subject Headings: Gravity waves | Wave refraction | Wave equations | Numerical models | Linear functions | Wave diffraction | Ocean engineering

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