Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles

by Magnus Larson, Univ of Lund, Lund, Sweden,

Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis


A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires the transformation of only one representative wave height, the root-mean-square wave height, and no assumptions are needed regarding the shape of the probability density function. Data from large wave tank tests (SUPERTANK) are employed to validate the model. Comparisons between measurements and calculations are satisfactory with a slight overprediction for cases where the zone of wave breaking is narrow over a non-monotonic feature such as a bar or a mound.

Subject Headings: Random waves | Wave tanks | Water waves | Breaking waves | Wave measurement | Wave height | Mathematical models

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