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On the Generation of Infragravity Waves by Shoaling Multidirectional Waves

by Okey Nwogu, Natl Research Council, Ottawa, Canada,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis

Abstract:

The generation of long period waves in shallow water by shoaling multidirectional waves is investigate using both numerical simulations and laboratory experiments. The numerical model is based on a new form of the Boussinesq equations that is applicable to non-breaking wave in both intermediate and shallow water depths. The model can simulate the nonlinear effects that occur in the propagation of irregular wave trains from `deep' to shallow water, including the amplification of the forced long period waves. It cannot, however, simulate free infragravity waves that are generated inside the surf zone. The results of numerical model are compared to experimental results for the shoaling of bichromatic waves and irregular multidirectional waves on a constant slope beach.

Subject Headings: Wave shoaling | Water waves | Gravity waves | Long waves | Numerical models | Wave generation | Shallow water

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